Of you’re looking into alternatives I’d say look at PET. Put yourself ahead of the curve.
I have some red pet I’m about to experiment with
PET is great, but similar to PLA it does not cope well with high ambient temperature. Leave it in the car on a hot day and it will deform. For printing high quality surfaces in an easy way it is very good though.
Temperature control.
You can use antiwarp discs http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:441067
Use 8mm brim too.
Pd: you use rectilinear infill or honeycomb??
For sticking ABS to a heated bed the best (by far) product I’ve tried is Dimafix ( http://www.dimafix.com ). It’s a temperature-dependant adhesive. It means that when the bed is hot it has the strongest adhesion I’ve seen, but after printing and cooling the bed the piece come out by itself. I use it on a glass bed and have zero warping even on very big parts.
The manufacturer has some tables and technical studies on its website about it, give it a look.
The other problem you have is delamination, that can be fixed with more extruder temperature. I usually print ABS at 250-260 ºC, but it depends on the plastic’s manufacturer.
@Alvaro_Rey_Rodriguez bottom and top layers are rectilinear and infill is honeycomb
@Samuel_Ureta i will definitgive it a look
I find I generally need 100˚C bed temp for ABS. Larger parts, I heat the air inside the enclosure to 38˚C. PEI as a build surface has done wonders for me too. The bed & gantry must be true & level too.
Nelly hairspray is your friend
h I use Dima Fix, specific adhesive for 3D printing. It works great and avoid warping problems on ABS. Highly recommended, it is activated with temperature bed. It works better than each other like Nelly … Test it! : http://dimafix.com/
More information: http://www.dima3d.com/technical-report-dimafix/?lang=en
Getting the bottom to stick to the build plate won’t fix the delamination issue. A second look at the numbers. ABS takes a lot to get to build well. An enclosure is needed, up the build plate temp at least 10˚C. 210˚C is awfully low for extruding ABS. I’d skip to 220˚C, then 230˚C and see if that helps.
I ran into this situation this weekend. I was trying low heat printing with ABS, terrible results. Had warping from the bed, layer separation up in the model, etc. Did a quick google search and found peeps were using really high temps, e.g. 250+ for ABS and a 100-110 heat bed. I set my heated bed to 100 and set extruder for 250. I also used on the glass bed purple glue stick, then a layer of blue tape (saves your glass bed from divots) and then another layer of purple glue stick. Enclosed printer, completely worked no edges curled from bed, and all layers remained together. Very surprised since I was going only as high as 235 for ABS and 80c for the print bed.
Im newbie in this but ~RUSS uses printed ABS melted in aceton and shrik this stuff all over printed area (on glass) and prints on this surface. And after print is finished put the glass to some cold area (outside, freezer) and the prind pops out of the surface. Works for him. You can try it:) But Its solution only for the bottom. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nN1XsFWq1HA&list=PLsiIKXpZfLKKDZjBhw_ptW3_P-mrPp2BU&index=2 footage from 4:20
I have a non removable bed
it doesnt matter. Just put some glass on and clamp it with your bed with these. http://gulase.cz/space/8143ec517d68b6edd3015b3edc9a11367b/2011/08/30/19/52/medium/m_ff70637b397c1b0bb8e0832c5c694f99.jpg
Cant do that… Would throw off the calibration and the tip would go into the new glass since its raised
I can adjust it… just not precisely with something on top of it because the calibration points are on the original glass bed