Yeah, PrusaPCBs take forever to heat up with their ~150W output (mine take about 20 minutes to get to 120C). When heated up, they need about 100W to stay hot, which is of course dependent on your exact printer setup and ambient temperature.
Hey that is about the size heated bed I have been looking for for my giant prusa i3 build.
Ah, that’s better.
@Thomas_Sanladerer What would a good wattage be for a heat bed operating on 12V?
@Wayne_Friedt as much as your PSU can handle. 300W would take you up to about 200C with a bit of a wait - but make sure the heater is rated higher than it needs to be if you decide to go high-power. Every little bit of extra power helps, though.
My SD2 has this wonderful non replaceable drivers board,not. So i do not know what it can handle for the heat bed.
At 12V for a 350w heater that works out to 29A. Fairly big amperage for a brick
@Tim_Rastall awesome, I never would have even thought of haggling. And even better, no need for a poker face.
As for the large heated beds, please make site to check the resistance on the heater. This will determine the actual wattage output. If the heaters are like resistor ratings, it just specifies how much heat the past can expel before breakdown, while properly mounted. Ohm’s law will always prevail. Power=V^2/R. I made the mistake of buying a 300 watt 12vdc power supply. This have me no more heat than my lower wattage supply. The only way to increase heat is to lower resistance, which you can’t, or increase voltage. The current will never change at a constant voyage because the resistance is constant as well (v=ir). But you can’t increase voltage beyond the breakdown of the insulation. You can probably run 24vdc on the 12v heater as long as you don’t violate the power rating, but definitely don’t hook it up to 120vac.
Hope I didn’t just state the obvious, I just don’t want anyone wasting money like I did