Well done!!
The z offset is the relationship between the height needed to trigger the Z probe as an endstop and the desired height of your first layer. By adjusting this, you adjust your starting height in the first layer
The XY offset is used to accommodate where the probe is positioned on the x carriage, so multiple printers and designs can still be programmed to probe in an appropriate position to get a good reading. Early on, in testing different printers, the sensor would be off the side or back of the bed so we needed an offset to force it to play nice.
Brook
I am still very confused where to put the X offsets. Should that be in the EEPROM only and everything else figures it out from there? Or also in Repetier and / or the slicer config?
I am also not used to Repetier not always knowing where the x carriage is. After a G29, Repetier is out of sync. Is that the way it’s supposed to be?
I have started a Google doc with configuration notes for the Metal Plus using Repetier and Slic3r
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Y9Nhl0c1kQj8QD8UeEI36yxvK8E8kHysiwplqxTlAQc/edit?usp=sharing
Any comments would be much appreciated.
Sorry, off to CES… I’ll be gone a couple days.
Brook
@Brook_Drumm Have you had a chance to look into the metal plus bed heating issue? I’d be happy to share the mods I’ve made to get mine working well at 110C.
We have test results and need to share them. In short, nylon washers between bed and rails and on simple metal, between wings and heated bed (also between Delrin and wings to keep height up for clearance). One or two sheets of radiant barrier under bed - poke holes and screw it on to avoid the need for tape.
With these two mods, less than $2, heating is four or five times faster and 110c is sustainable. We will be putting a kit out there for cheap and make available for free- just pay shipping. We are considering just sending to all metal plus customers and heated upgrade owners for the simple metal. Everyone should do this mod. We will build like this for all future builds and ship with kits.
Brook
Sounds similar to what I did. I used a 6mm stainless standoff in the left, rear corner and springs in the left front corner and right middle. This allows the bed to expand and as an added bonus, I can get it level to <0.02mm. I used 8 mil stainless shim stock as a radiant barrier but will trade that for something thinner. Aluminum foil worked great on my (upgraded) LC V1.
I also had the heater PCB warp pretty badly due to thermal expansion of the aluminum so I’ve removed the screws from the corners and have it held in place with tabs that allow a bit of movement. Thermal paste between the heater and bed also helps a lot. I have the thermistor placed in one of the unused holes in the aluminum bed to get more accurate readings.
Lastly, I’m running my printer at 18V. I’ve used my thermal camera to make sure that the wiring and FETs on the Printrboard are not overheating. I build power cables with 16 gauge wire and soldered all the crimps to prevent hot spots. I’ve had great results running at the higher voltage. My print bed heats from 20-110C in about 12 minutes.
@Kevin_Criqui great tips!! You really covered all the bases! Well done. You’re hired. Just show up for work tomorrow 
Brook