@Normand_Chamberland Hmmm. I’ve not experienced that and I’m making a bunch of precission fit parts. I’m running my bed at 110 with a cover over the printer so the ambient temperature is is about 35 degrees…
@Tim_Rastall
That’s odd. I have a Lulzbot AO-100 (MendelMax clone), the bed consists of a PCB Mk1 heat bed with borosilicate glass and PET tape, placed on screws with springs (standoffs if you will). I heat my bed at 110º. With hairspray what I did is turn the glass upside down to get the untaped surface, so the tape was against the PCB heatbed. But as I said, it’s been Lulzbot’s experience as well that some parts shrink with hairspray on bare glass.
Ah, maybe it’s a glass thing as I’m printing straight onto Aluminium (glass just adds more weight).
@Ben_Malcheski I have been printing on bare glass for over a year.
Try using raft settings in your slicer if all else fails. What printer do you have @David_Tarlau ? Ambient temperature and air movement around the printer can cause warping. Do you have any pictures of what you are experiencing?
There are two big things I suggest people do. Level your bed and use two temperatures, one for the initial layer and then drop it down. I start at 110 and drop down to 90.
@Richard_Horne has an excellent (although slightly dated in terms of what the software can do now) guide on how to get excellent prints. The link has a section on getting the first layer to stick well (which will help with warping).
I always use 100 Degrees C or more for ABS on Glass + PET tape and Hairspray. I don’t find dropping to 90 works well for me.
Always wanted to try a Mylar bag around the hot-end and covering the heated-bed as a flexible heat-trap-chamber.
@Ross_Hendrickson I have a Bukobot Duo.