I also put the bed wiring in loom to be safe.
@Eclsnowman
Yeah I’m sure that’s good enough. I was thinking that it’s really no different from any other insulated 120VAC electric cable laying around- even a simple extension cord or power strip, as long as it has insulation.
@Ted_Huntington true, but this stuff is crazy flexible. I think it is silicone based versus a normal vinyl insulation.
Yeah, that’s an accurate description of many wires I have that originated from China- it probably pays to tortuously wrap it in a loom- either way I’m sure it won’t demolish the printer circuit and is safe.
I am trying to decide which 3D printer to build between the spider v1 and spider v2. I’m thinking that the v2 is maybe a better choice because of the improvements to v1. I don’t see a BOM for v1 other than the Eustathios BOM which isn’t complete and may be different from the Spider version. Of course, bigger and cheaper is best in my view 
The Eustathios is supposed to have a build volume of 300x300x270mm the v2 is 285x285x295mm, but yet the heated mat is 320x320 and heat spreader 400x360- so perhaps there is extra XY space there that could be utilized? The other differences are that the V2 has X and Y motors on top with smaller belts, which reduces backlash. The v2 uses extruded aluminum with tapped ends and holes, where presumably the V1 does not? Other than that, are there other significant advantages to the V2?
V1 never reached 300x300x270 more like 285x285x250, so size of X/Y usable is close to identical. The issue is the carriage takes up space. But V2 gained more Z by lowering the floor and extending the screws/rods. I used a larger heater pad for more even heat. If the pad is only as big as your usable area you will have a harsh gradient at the edges.
I think I will build the V2 then. It would be great to see some videos of the V2 making a print. That is a great job on the V2 BOM and git files- I don’t think I will have any problem getting all the parts and figuring out how it connects together. I want dual extruders so maybe I should use the xy carriage from the Herculien, and presumably the extruder and spool holder could just be doubled and easily attach to the frame similarly to the Herculien. I was thinking of just using cheap J-head extruders from ebay (they now come with heat sink, fan, thermister, heating element- all wired- for <$15- I think they are identical to the E3D)- hopefully they will fit in the XY carriage. I’m sure it will be a lot of fun and a real learning experience.
@Ted_Huntington Look through the group posts. There should be plenty of video and time lapses of prints. Also if you scroll back through my profile you will see some.
Tread lightly with the cheap hotends. IMHO they are not worth the hassle, and certainly are not the same quality as E3D. Time/Material wasted from failed prints adds up fast. Where-as using quality components, I have not had a failed print (knock on wood) in as long as I can remember.
Thanks, will do! Just to confirm: I will not need to manually turn down the lead screw ends to 8mm- I have only a mini-lathe currently. Do any parts need to be manually machined on the V2?
No, if you go Misumi they are already machined. But some people are having good luck with ballscrews from china which can be superior to leadscrews. I think they go here: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Ballscrew-and-shaft-coupler/920371_253896180.html If you can get them to match the machined sizes, then that’s the way I would go. But you will need to use Walters bed mounts (see thingiverse).
This part must be the one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:854267 - I think there is a typo in the BOM for the V2- the leadscrew- they are 425mm long but it has “46mm Long”, so presumably the 450mm versions would need to be purchased and cut off at 425mm which is no problem if true: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Ballscrew-RM1204-L-450mm-with-end-machining-Single-Ballnut-for-CNC/920371_1588701082.html
looks good - and there will be no need to turn it down to 8mm for a bearing?
Yes it must be turned down by the mfg. It is a 12mm the bearing is 8mm. I would look through some of the older posts for clarity.
just so I don’t spread misinformation, there is not a typo on the BOM for V2, the 46mm Long x 8mm OD is the step (turned end)