There may be an option for second hand ones. But as everyone else said. 3D pens are toys you may as well go buy a glue gun. Else save up some more and buy one or a kit if you’re good with diy.
Do not trust masakaki and midas bank
Google your question
@Adrian_Ciubotariu was is it American if you know
Thnx its not the cheapest one but i might get it
@Roger_Y I don’t honestly know that many people that have seen the anime.
@Kaedy_Rice just remember, you get what you pay for, and deltas are difficult to calibrate
@Adrian_Ciubotariu that’s assuming the arms are all consistent and the top endstops are all consistent.
@Justin_Nesselrotte found it and binged it yesterday lol, I want to punch masakaki thought.
For sub 200 your best bet is probaby frabrikator from hobby king, q3d one up, a delta printer if you can find one. Hobby kings build space is about 80x80x80, q3d 100x100x100, delta 160x160x180.
Delta printers are a little bit trickier than cartesian printers. As a starter I would suggest the other two since its a simpler system.
I agree delta is hard to calibrate. I finally remove auto calibrate parts and use a very basic calibrate method.
Yes you can get a printer from aliexpress. Will it work well? That’s a crapshoot. Some people have had good luck with very inexpensive kits but some haven’t. Deltas are normally more difficult to get setup than Cartesian. That’s just how it is presented but it doesn’t mean it’s impossible. At that price though, you are still much better off saving for something with very nice quality parts like a Printrbot where they are the ones who made the design and use top notch stuff. Screwing around with parts not working because they used 8 cent linear bearings is not worth it in my opinion. I built my first printer cheap- $230 at the time and the linear motion was terrible. The board also failed in a matter of hours. You can look at those cheap kits but if you don’t know what you are doing they can be a pain. And don’t forget how great it is to deal with their customer service…
I also noticed that you asked about the easiest 3D printer. And the truthful answer in my opinion is not really any are super easy. I mean this in the way that if it has an issue sometimes it is not clear what it is by any means.
If you really don’t want to spend more than $200, don’t buy one. Save up a little more. Trust me I speak from experience, when it comes to 3D printing, quality counts. We are talking about an accuracy of a TENTH of a millimeter in some cases and others even smaller. You can’t cheap out and expect reliable quality results. A roll of filament and some hairspray to use as an adherent will run you $30 anyways and you go through those rolls fairly quick.
Hope this clears it up.
@Kaedy_Rice If the most high tech thing you have in your house is a bluetooth keyboard, then you most likely have the know how required for a 3d printer. Trust me, they take a LOT of tinkering.
Saw this the other day… http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1047193 …I have access to some other 3d printers to make a few of the parts needed. The rest is sourcing of inexpensive parts here and there. Under $300 and uses the CoreXY ideology for movement.
@Alexander_Pritchard I’d assert that they take a little more knowledge than that.
@Roger_Y I’m so so sorry for your current emotional state. I’ve seen it many many times and I always find something new. Even the credits have easter eggs.
@Adrian_Ciubotariu I don’t trust AliExpress reviews. I trust that even with carbon fiber tubes, you’re going to have problems.
Honestly, I could build a decent delta for about $300. But I already have boards and motors so that could realistically be a lot lower… Hmm… I think I’m gonna go build a delta now.
My first printer was $800. That was for a self built prusa i2. Her name was Jasmine. That stands for Just Another Sexy Machine, Is Notably Expensive. I’d rather you shoot for the $300 range than the $800 though, if price is such a concern. I waited almost 7 years to be able to afford one. You should probably wait a bit longer and save up too.
Build it! Cherry3D printer. Thingiverse and Instructible say it’s about 60euros, but it will be extremely slow. The steppers it uses burn out if you push it too hard.
I would’t necessarly agree with no options under $500 but the choices are slim. Printrbot play, maybe a M3D, and building one yourself. Thats pretty much all I can recommend
@Nathan_Walkner you’re severely underestimating the physical and emotional toll of not having a printer work for months at a time. You’re severely underestimating the amount of maintenance involved. I’d rather ‘waste’ $1350 and get a Lulzbot Mini any day honestly. They’re reliable machines. The waste to me is spending $200 for a printer that will never work and if it does it doesn’t work well.
@Mark_Rehorst Everytime you go on that sub $500 rant I’ve elected not to say anything as I don’t want to be seen as promoting my wares. I agree that most sub $500 kits aren’t that good. There are though a few of us that do provide excellent, quality, low cost entry level kits. If the mods feel this is too much self promotion please zap the post.
I’ve been selling parts and kits with quality parts for a while, almost four years. The least expensive is $330. Real E3D Lite v6, Kysan 76 oz/in motors, real Schott borofloat, heated bed, chromed, hardend bearing steel rods, good Ramps and Mega clone, solid 12volt psu. For about $500 I have a 24 volt kit, real Ultimachine Mini Rambo and E3D full v6 with the above mechanical parts.
Of the couple of different Rework variants I’ve sold over 1000. In terms of print quality and maintenance it’s as good as my Mendelmax 2 or Mendelmax 3. I have 8 bots in the farm. Five are my i3 Rework variant, one is a prototype larger print bed of that design (with Ultimachine’s brand new 32 bit controller), and MM2 and an MM3.
For a few hundred to $500 someone can build a good FFF printer. If one avoids acrylic kits, uses known vendors with good reviews, docs, source and support, they can get a good, low cost machine for $400-500. There aren’t a lot of us, but we’re out there.
So another thing you’ll want to do is keep an eye out for broken printers. Scavenge them for their stepper motors. Those things are $15 a pop.
@Mark_Rehorst The i3 machines, no matter who’s machine, are entry level machines in the big picture of the FDM/FFF process. In many applications many of the $500 kits will equal what you’ve built in print quality.
A maker should encourage making at all levels and not be dismissive of those that may not have the means. You are dismissive to anyone without the means to spend more and do a disservice to a DIY community that is based on basic designs and a maker spirit. I’d rather see 1000 kids building cheap kits (any kit, not just mine) than 100 kids building higher end machines where the other 900 were discouraged from doing anything. Making is about inclusion, your approach is about exclusivity.
Low end kits. even the cheap acrylic kits, are good vehicles to learn the basics of CNC, use of tools, basics of working with embedded electronics as well as the general spirit of making. The irony is that without the history of low end, design compromised machines, you would never have been able to build your machine. Reprap allowed you the knowledge and opportunity to build your machine. Don’t disrespect the movement by discouraging new builders.