Also get up to temp before turning on the part cooling fan.
@Eclsnowman How do I go about turning on just that fan? Not sure how I would wire it? Not sure if I need to have a manual switch or if there is some place to hook it up that I’m not seeing?
I ordered the 40watt heater but they messed up my address. 
@bcrazycramer there should be an output on the azteeg for the part cooling fan. The heatsink fan should be on constant 24v. Also you should run the PID tuning for now until you get the new heater. My PID based on a 40watt heater is likely limiting your lower output heater.
PID?
There is but it says low voltage only. The fan for cooling the print is 24 volts. Not sure how I’m going to be able to hook that up and be able to turn it on and off in Repetier Host…
That brings up my next question. Do you run that fan at full speed? If so I will just hook it up to have 24 volts constant once I get my 40 watt heater.
There is a fan output on the x5 mini for the part cooling fan, I am sure of it. And no you don’t want the part cooling fan on constant or you won’t be able to do ABS and other plastic that doesn’t like part cooling. Only the heatsink fan should be on 100%.
Just curious, is the 25W heater the one with the blue wires and the 40W with the red? Because my new hotend came with blue wires.
@bcrazycramer Make sure you don’t have air blowing directly on the nozzle. That will cool it down too much. You want it blowing just around the nozzle.
@bcrazycramer PID stands for Proportional Integral Derivative, and it’s a kind of universal controller for things where you don’t know or can’t model the exact behavior of a system (the system in this case being the temperature and heating/cooling of the nozzle.) You adjust 3 gains, Kp, Ki, and Kd which are multiplied by the error (the difference between the actual and commanded temperature), the integral of the error, and the derivative of the error, respectively. These are summed together and become the new value to send to the heater cartridge.
So how do you adjust these values? You can run PID Autotune, which should figure it out for you. You can also do it manually. You can start by setting the Ki and Kd values to zero and increasing the Kp value until you get a decent rise time. Then you increase the Ki until you minimize the offset between the commanded and steady-state temps. You then increase the derivative gain (Kd) to reduce any oscillations.
@Erik_Scott that is just about the best and most concise PID explanation I have seen so far. Very well done.
@Erik_Scott Yep! You got the 25watt version. The red ones are 40watt.
Thanks for the PID info. I will have to see if all that makes sense tomorrow when I’m in front of it.
@Eclsnowman it’s how I wish it had been explained to me when I was first learning controls. Teach the concepts first, then do the math to explain how and why.
@bcrazycramer No problem. Hope it helps. I never actually had to change the PID values in my first hotend. It worked perfectly out of the box. That said, I was using Marlin, not Smoothie.
I have an extra red 40W cartridge from the hotend I removed when I gave up on dual extrusion. I’m going to use that in my new build then.