No @Nathan_Walkner , I deenergize my motors and just keep my control board and laptop on. Obviously not everyone flips the breakers before they leave the house. If you want to blanket every power source as a absolute danger, go ahead, but there’s a difference between large and small loads.
Your not getting my point @Nathan_Walkner , my comment wasn’t to absolutely nutralize the load, but rather to lower it’s potential. Of course your 5v phone charger somewhere in your house can burn it down. I wouldn’t go threw all the trouble of shutting my bed, head, and motors off with individual switches for nothing, as I said, just to lessen it’s potential. Keep in mind the original question was to nutralize the parts of the printer that were hot. You assume too much.
Im sorry to hear about your experiance @Nathan_Walkner . I gave you the example of the 5v phone charger (something everyone can relate to) in hopes you would understand me. Your telling me something I obviously know already, and hopefully everyone knows now from our back-and-forths.
Usually, I don’t leave it for longer than an hour without direct supervision. Must jobs have been fairly small so far; 5 hours at most.
Depends on your setup really, I’ve done 18+ hour jobs while I’ve been a way. Using kossel mini. But I’m confident in my setup tho.
I’ll leave it running, but only if there’s someone else (roommate, etc) at home who I can call if i see something bad happen in OctoPrint. I tell them I’ve left it running as well, so they know, and never leave for more than 30 minutes.
I’m pretty confident of my own skills in wiring things, but I don’t trust the stuff built by people I don’t know. (the components). I think secondary thermal sensors should become more commonplace (Tied back to an overheat system to cut power)
That’s where I can setup a port forward with OctoPrint and cancel my print if something goes wrong. Usually, though, that doesn’t happen. Plus, what could possibly go wrong (aside from wasting filament on a failed print)?
Usually wiring/fire related things. Temp sensor pops out or gets bad connection, SSR fails closed, mosfet fails closed, etc etc. The heaters in printers these days can get to ignition levels for the components they’re built with, specially with laser-cut wood and acrylic printers. We don’t have UL certification on our devices, all it takes is one odd thing to happen that wasn’t planned on.
I guess it depends on the printer, then.