@Brandoan_Rex if you print 2-4 things of different size and they all have the same PERCENTAGE error, then your problem is steps/mm or some similar scaling factor. If they all have the same ABSOLUTE error, then your problem is a fixed offset, like an extrusion volume calibration thing (making every strand too thick/thin) or backlash or something along those lines.
Ok I got this model printed. I used Digital Dentist’s spreadsheet, I attached it with the measurements I pulled… I am kind of disappointed because it is saying I am pretty accurate.
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Isn’t “pretty accurate” a good thing? I personally would call 0.2mm error in 100mm a good place to stop. (Less than a hundredth of an inch.) It’s hard to do much better with squirting a noodle of molten plastic.
So when I print smaller that error rate will stay consistent or grow?
@Brandoan_Rex looks to me like it will be pretty consistent. You may be able to use slicer settings to dial it in just a bit more.
Very cool, thanks for the support @Ryan_Carlyle … I noticed a few posts you had made on Z Banding/Wobble and I was wondering what in your experience I should look at first to get on the path of resolving the issue? I will post three cylinders; all three were printed one after the other, same profile, no adjustment. I did just scale the cylinders in S3D so as I made it bigger it did begin to have larger faceted sides but the bigger the cylinder became the less I see the wobble. The thinnest cylinder is just a little wider then the diameter of each of my 4 Z Screws. I do a much smaller cylinder on a test print I often do and it looks fine, it seems like the closer to the actual screw diameter I get the more the problem shows up, does that make sense?
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The flex coupler that ties the Z Motor to the screw shaft is inside this component, the two holes on the front allow access to the set screws of the flex coupler.
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That’s the entire Z stack. Now there are one of those in each corner of the elevator plate. The front right, rear right, and rear left all have a partnered guide rod. The Front Right is just the screw lacking a guide rod. At the top and bottom of the 14mm diameter screw is a self aligning pillow block with two set screws that lock into the smoothed machined 8mm end. At the top the shaft of the screw actually goes through the pillow block and into a standard flex coupler which on the top side attaches the Z Motor.
What am I doing wrong here…
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Right Side
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Left Side
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We were thinking about using tension springs on our Z Nuts to let them float… Since we can’t correct the screw any more then it is being corrected. The screws are not Chinese they are a domestic product from back east, we rolled them on granite to ensure they were straight and when we had their ends machined we made sure they were balanced. Thanks @Ryan_Carlyle for taking the time to look at this issue, I just want to kill Z-Wobble completely on this build, everything else works so good.