@Ted_Huntington I have a genuine E3Dv6 I purchased along with my OpenBuilds OX CNC from http://smw3d.com, who I’m confident actually sells the genuine article. But, I mostly got it so I could print high temperature filament (I’ve been sitting on a spool of Taulman 618 nylon for well over a year), but some assembly required, so I’ve put that on hold for other things. I’ll get to it eventually.
@SirGeekALot
Probably the original E3Dv6 is better than the $10 clones, in particular at higher speeds and volumes. There are now 2 clone E3Dv6 throats (heat breaks) on aliexpress - 1 the all metal which works fine for ABS- and probably for Nylon- since there is no PTFE in it- but I’ve never tried Nylone- only ABS which works consistently- and then a second throat with a PTFE which is needed for PLA- I could not get PLA to extrude after the initial push through without a PTFE tube in the all-metal clone version- but I’ve read that other people have trouble with PLA and the all-metal original too.
It arrived today. 
And? AAAAND? Don’t leave us in suspense!
Alright… We need an unboxing and first impression video
@Eclsnowman , @Mike_Miller I just posted photos from the unboxing. It may be a while before I actually get around to putting the whole thing together though.
Looks neatly packaged- and I notice that they are using a smaller watt power supply- in particular if using a alirubber heating pad- a large supply is not necessary. I think these z-moving-only bed designs are going to ultimately replace the y-moving ones.
That was pretty fast shipping. It looks like the design is pretty similar to the Eustathios Spider V2- I wonder if they use 10mm perimeter rails and 8mm carriage rails.
A lot of printed parts have been replaced with laser cut acrylic- which is probably a lot faster to produce.
Is that a geared reduced extruder?
Just plain bushings- not self-aligning- let us know if getting the carriage to move freely is no problem. There is a set screw adjustment there which looks complicated.
The z-limit is interesting- they run the rail up higher and it must just be hand adjusted.
nice the way they avoided having to machine the aluminum bed (other than 4 drill holes).
@Ted_Huntington I didn’t see your question until now: no, that is not a gear-reduced extruder. It is just a hobbed gear on the stepper shaft.
BTW, while it was a little frustrating to get setup and tweaked properly, I have been using it for quite a while now without having to adjust anything. I don’t even have a bed leveling sensor and I haven’t had to adjust it at all after I spent (a non-trivial amount of) time getting it level.
oh ok good to read. Too bad that printer is no longer available. I found a similar one here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-ultimaker-2-cross-shaft-structure-Diy-Kit/32796573258.html but it is $400 and looks possibly like acrylic. This one opts for putting the X-axis motor on the carriage itself: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/S5-large-size-metal-fuselage-High-Quality-Precision-DIY-3D-printer-kit-with-LCD-Ultimaker2-structure/32789780180.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3D-printer-ultimaker-2-cross-shaft-structure-Diy-Kit/32796573258.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.42.oibwDr&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10130_10068_436_10136_10157_10137_10060_10138_10155_10062_10156_10154_10056_10055_10054_10059_10099_10103_10102_10096_10147_10052_10053_10107_10050_10142_10051_10084_10083_10119_10080_10082_10081_10178_10110_10111_10112_10113_10114_10181_10037_10183_10182_10185_10032_10078_10079_10077_10073_10070_10123_10120-436_10183_10120,searchweb201603_4,ppcSwitch_7&btsid=a64f4b26-0ef9-444d-ac85-90f3dfb46192&algo_expid=7468a3a8-421f-4acb-99ac-d7942cf8a965-5&algo_pvid=7468a3a8-421f-4acb-99ac-d7942cf8a965
That one is quite a bit more expensive. Check out this post I made yesterday: