Ok guys, I have a problem that I can't seem to fix.

As far as the laser staying on did you connect to the mosfet or the 2.4 pin directly? This will make a difference in your config file

I have changed nothing in the firmware.

c63812d5b427ae2e1b949c3032cbf660.jpeg

Open your config file check to see if laser fire pin is set to 2.4!

Are you wired and configured as my drawing shows?
You have to make sure the pwm on 2.4 in config file is as the drawing shows.

Are you wired and configured as my drawing shows?
You have to make sure the pwm on 2.4 in config file is as the drawing shows.

Sorry that is what I was getting at… if it was set to 2.4! The laser would be on all the time

Ok after all of that, an intermittently loose wire on the k40 power supply plug, me being dumb and misunderstanding the terminal strip terminology, the test switch on the panel working intermittently, I think it’s working as it should! Got the firmware deal figured out. Now just need to configure stepper motors and good to go… I hope. I already changed the limit switches enabling x min y max.

Any one have a link for config changes for k40?

I went back to how Alex had it. That allows for use of the potentiometer correct? To change to allow the smoothie to control pwm, I would need an optocoupler diode, is that what I am understanding?

I can run g code in laserweb, but having issues getting the laser to fire. Oddly when I unplug the USB (with the k40 on) the laser fires. I have gone in and switched the laser fire pin, changed laser enable from false to true, and nothing changes it seems? If I unhook level shifter from pwm and 3.3v it does the exact same thing. Starting to think that on top of everything else I screwed up the level shifter as well. Any ideas?

@Mark_Leino ​ I sent you a message on hangouts

@Mark_Leino neither. You do not need anything but 2 wires and you don’t need to do anything to the pot … please check the diagram.

…I don’t really get why after all this research and testing we are still using/recommending level shifters and making this more complex than it needs to be… TWO WIRES!
Its not helping our Smoothie adoption…
Perhaps I am still missing something?

@donkjr ​ I have instructed him to follow your diagram and explained that the opto diode was internal to the PSU which could be confusing to some folks

@donkjr ​ it might help if you do some engraving and post the results of it or I can rewire mine and do so… might help get people on board… the only reason why I did a level shifter was I was told to do so at the time because of the lack of knowledge of the internals of the PSU. The only way to get people onboard is to show the end results of a gray scale engrave

@Mark_Lein AH … the diode in the white box was intended to show what the PWM is connected to inside the supply.
That’s probably to much information for most folks, I will remove it.

@Alex_Krause what would the logic be that engraving is somehow sensitive to the PWM control interface. (assuming it is a proper digital signal with variable DF).

PWM is digital and no matter the end result power in a PWM controlled system uses exactly the same mechanism whether you are raster-ing, vectoring etc.

Or that a level shifter would engrave better than an open drain?

They are all digital PWM pulses with varying duty factors?

I will ask @Robert_Rossi to show some of the engraving he is doing while I am still testing PWM response.

All I’m trying to say is people will adopt what “works” I will rewire mine in a day or two and do some engraving. I have no doubts that your way is the best way to wire it, but without actually seeing any results people are hesitant to try something different than what has been posted out there. I think that is the biggest hurdle to overcome with adapting to what is most likely the best practice in dealing with these machines

In all honesty I was looking for the easiest way, and being unfamiliar with this controller I used what I had. If you had left out the opticoupler and open drain I would have done it that way in a heart beat. I thought they were things I had to buy. I also had the controller in my hands and was trying to wire it 2 minutes later

Wired it @donkjr ​​ way, success! Like he had on his drawing, and pin (2.4), not (2.4!) Easy!
@Alex_Krause ​​ thanks for your awesome in depth trouble shooting. I owe you guys big time!

@Mark_Leino ​ Awesome! I am glad you got it working using @donkjr ​ method. Now on to LASER EVERYTHING. Muhahahahah