Also, I print in a cave that is 80% humidity. I know what you mean. I’ve made temperature controlled drying chambers that keep my filament from ever touching the air.
@Matt_Kraemer Do you need to use the drying chamber for ABS?
I just made a lovely discovery. When moving my hot ends around the bed, the one I am not using to print with sometimes dips lower than the one I am printing with. This means that if the plastic is still hot enough, it can cut into it with its pointy nozzle. That explains why some layers may be good and some are not. I expected the other nozzle to drag a little, but I did not expect it to gouge into the print.
Since I printed a dual extrusion adapter, that may be part of the problem too. What if during a long print or a print with more heat, the plastic deformed some? I am not using a fan to cool the PEEK plastic and I know the PEEK plastic can get hot enough to burn me and that a fair amount of heat transfers to the PTC quick fit connector even.
The drag is not even. The right hand nozzle gets lower when I push the nozzle to the right. It is always lower than the nozzle on the left.
@NathanielStenzel yes. Otherwise the abs pops and bubbles.
Ok. Disassembly and re-assembly did not seem to fix it. I re-arranged the rod ends and that fixed it. This means that some of my diagonal rods are not the exact same length and/or have some wobble on the ends. I did choose to make my own, so I guess it is to be expected. One of the rod ends had the hole enlarge with use too. Maybe I will print out another set of rod ends and make a spare rod.
While I was dealing with this, I also put the spacers back in and it turns out I could get some of my original print height back. The tips of my nozzles are now about 3/4" below the bottom edge of my effector. This also means less chance for wobble.