@Yuusuf_Sallahuddin_Y , as I mentioned earlier, LEDs! Had to dig up a few items that have been buried for a few years, but the first test is up and running … Now I need to continue wiring up buttons and see what I come up with. Wheee.
@Nigel_Conroy I registered after my reply that it wasn’t safety that was the concern but scary night time shadows haha.
@Ashley_M_Kirchner_No Wow, that’s absolutely great.
On a side note, I did a test last night in total darkness with the tealight candle & the shadow spread was still only about 1m away that you could see any clear definition. I then tested the led torch from my phone & the spread was about 3-4m & super clear details, so I think it could even go further.
Further in scaring kids? 
@Ashley_M_Kirchner_No Haha, I suppose it would depend on the cutout. But even a giant Mickey Mouse shadow could be scary I suppose.
True, and you could also get in trouble for using that. Or you can come up with seemingly innocent shapes which when light casts a shadow, turn into something highly inappropriate.
@Ashley_M_Kirchner_No Just had another look at the tealights & candelabra ones you showed again & realised your design is better as they all have some feet a the bottom. I might have to mod my design to incorporate that sort of thing as it looks a touch better than just sitting flat on the surface.
Yeah, I do that for two reasons: a) to keep the hot bottom off of whatever it’s sitting on, and b) for airflow. The bottom of the holders have a grill cut in them that the tea light would sit on. The hot air from the candle can then escape from the top while cold air comes in from the bottom. Because all my designs vary in how much air can flow through the sides (some have large holes, others have tiny ones), having the bottom open allows for airflow regardless. On my template I have the grill setup as a cut, the logo as a pathfill and the warning message also as a cut, but at 10% high speed. That results in very sharp text versus engraving it.
I still can’t get raster engraving to work though. I’m still getting a darker burn mark left and right of the image, and if I set the overscan, it creates two thin lines on either side of the image, equal to the distance of the overscan. It’s like the laser gets to the end of its path, fires, then reverses direction. Not sure why. Doesn’t matter what overscan size I use. So yeah, for not, raster scanning is useless for me till I can figure out what’s going on. A shame really.
@Ashley_M_Kirchner_No That’s a good design to have the airflow in the bottom & have warnings path-filled onto it.
I’m assuming you are running Smoothie or C3D on LaserWeb, so I’ve a thought regarding your burns on the left & right even with overscan on. I’m wondering if you’ve got a minimum power or something set in the config. I haven’t played with raster for a while, so can’t be sure mine’s not doing the same thing either. Will have to give it a test on a raster sometime soon & see if I end up with the same issue.
It looks like the binaries have been updated again, so I’m going to update and do another test to see what happens. And yes, LW on C3D Mini. I posted my config not too long ago, nothing’s changed in it. The minimum is set to 0.1 (max 0.8). But even at 0.0, it still does it.
And only my logo is pathfilled. The warning text is set as a cut operation at low power and higher speed.
@Ashley_M_Kirchner_No I will see if I can find your config in old posts & have a look if there is anything that may assist the left & right burn issue. I’m pretty happy with the path fill option, but raster would be useful at times too (for gradients). Low power cuts can make great embellishments at time too (like your warning texts).
And no you can’t see anything of mine in the LW group because I got kicked out “for attacking Peter personally”. shrug If I lived my professional life like that (or even personal), I wouldn’t be where I am today. Having been in the IT world for over 30 years I’ve had my fair share of personal and professional attacks.
@Ashley_M_Kirchner_No Only thing I notice different in your config to mine is line 21 of mine has this:
acceleration_ticks_per_second 1000 # Number of times per second the speed is updated
Also, I have the min power set to 0.0 & max power set to 1.0 in my config. Everything else seems to be of no significant difference.
Originally the config was at 0.0 to 0.8, and I wasn’t getting a good result at low power, so per Ray’s suggestion, I changed it to 0.1 and it works much better at low power now. And the acceleration on mine is set to 3000, again not something I changed, it came that way.
I should also point out that for whatever reason, my machine appears to be somewhat of a unique beast. Perhaps it’s because it’s almost two years old now and some things are different compared to what’s coming out now, dunno.
@Ashley_M_Kirchner_No Mine is from back around September 2015, so about 1.5yrs old. Again, I haven’t tested rastering for a while so I will give it a test when I hit the laser next to see if I get the same dark left/rights that you are getting. I will try the overscan also to see if I get it happening then too. After I get around to it I will let you know my results.
Under 6K (compiled), about 99% of code space on the chip. Don’t think I’ll be adding much more. Two (2) buttons for control, one button does On-Off/Mode and the other brightness. At the moment 4 LEDs but I’m going to bump that up in the final design to either 5 or 6 (or find a single, low watt LED, although then I have to deal with cooling it.)
@Ashley_M_Kirchner_No That’s really cool Looks like something I’m going to have to learn how to do. Any pointers on a to do list for learning how to make led modules like that? Assume I have 0 knowledge of these things (except basic soldering & even more basic circuit knowledge, e.g. battery->switch->bulb).