@Cristian_Martinez missing/deleted image from Google+
@Cristian_Martinez
meh a Rpi is only 30$ish and you would be using a temp sensor on the outside of the Case you need a metal shell and glass/plexiglass if lid/front door if you were rich i’d say use duran glass and don’t forget fan exhaust.
The Rpi should NOT be housed inside the printer for use with Fire suppression…
My question is this, how are you starting fires???
I have printed hundreds of things and the worst that ever happened was plastic somehow went up inside the extruder, got under the metal protector on the bottom, took 5 hours to reheat n clean, until i got it all out.
I have never once had a fire…
Don’t use hairspray for gods sake.
that is a wemos with a relay shield on a cable with mother-father connector. it is good for 10A / 220VAC - tho i would not push it towards its end limit. cheap and easy to make - and i can switch it off over internet with a toggle on a web page loaded on my phone 
side note: cutting power to the printer when it is on fire it is kind of moo - meaning it wouldnt make any difference other than if you use water to put the fire out which you should not anyway
@Darkfyre_Algoma well my thermistor failed once and i didnt realize it so when i reheated my extruder to remove a fresh blob of PETG that encased my extruder it began to turn black and smoke. I rather not push my luck lol
@Cristian_Nicola so speaking of Wemos. Im currently playing around with Blynk. How are you pulling up a page to control something inside of your network when youre outside of it?
@Cristian_Martinez that is a very good indication that the temperature checks are DISABLED in your firmware. if i try to heat my extruder without the thermistor in it (ie thermistor sitting on the table), my printer will stop with an error on display and the extruder will NOT over heat.
Oh they shut the printer down when it broke. But i tried to heat it back up again like an idiot and it didnt catch it till it gave me a MAX_TEMP error lol
https://console.thinger.io for example. the arduino code is very simple: http://docs.thinger.io/arduino/
if i remember properly (i can check if you want me to) marlin has a setting whereby if the printer temperature doesnt change for a while it does stop the printer as it assumes the thermistor is broken or off the extruder.
“The second set of options applies to changes in target temperature. Whenever an M104 or M109 increases the target temperature the firmware will wait for the WATCH_TEMP_PERIOD to expire, and if the temperature hasn’t increased by WATCH_TEMP_INCREASE degrees, the machine is halted, requiring a hard reset. This test restarts with any M104/M109, but only if the current temperature is far enough below the target for a reliable test.”
#if ENABLED(THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS)
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD 40 // Seconds
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS 4 // Degrees Celsius
#define WATCH_TEMP_PERIOD 20 // Seconds
#define WATCH_TEMP_INCREASE 2 // Degrees Celsius
#endif
there is also //#define MILLISECONDS_PREHEAT_TIME 0
Take an aquarium (where the printer fits inside) fill it with co2 and get an airtight lid to prevent co2 from leaking. Make a small hole for the power and printer cable and only open the lid if you need to get your print out or you use the same setup but without co2 then if a fire is starting it produces co2 and extengisches it self (you dont even need the lid because co2 is denser than air). But if there is nothing flameble near the printer how could a fire start. So you can also put your printer in a glass or plexiglass container and put nothing flameble inside.