We have used a peek cold zone, a brass melt zone and a nichrome heater with a ceramic insulator on the Ubis ceramic from the beginning. This mash up of the ceramic and current Ubis 13 is the best of both worlds. The old Ubis ceramic wrapped wire into the grooves of the threaded brass and used a slip on ceramic insulator. This new design wraps the nichrome wire around an aluminum core that is potted into a ceramic insulator mold… Just like the Ubis 13. This new design uses the brass, like the Ubis ceramic, instead of the stainless steel on the Ubis 13. Instead of a long peek cold zone, it uses a short peek section that screws into an aluminum section for good passive cooling. Like the Ubis ceramic, there is a Teflon tube going from the top to the brass tube. The Ubis ceramic used a threaded Teflon tube. This new one uses a straight tube. The Ubis ceramic couldn’t really be disassembled. This new one can be completely disassembled, mostly by hand, and new parts traded out. It shares the nozzle tip and heater core with the Ubis 13. Going forward, all styles of the Ubus 13 can be mixed and matched… The tips and core, melt zones must be paired: stainless steel with all aluminum cold zone and brass melt zone with peek and aluminum (Teflon lined) cold zone. A third model, the “Pro” is planned with a longer stainless steel melt zone and dual heater core for higher flow applications- it uses the Ubis 13 all aluminum cold zone but will sacrifice a bit of z height since it will be longer. The Pro will go to 300C and print any material at high speeds.
You just dismantled Yoda’s light saber. The force is no longer with you.
@Brook_Drumm What temp does the cold zone need to be at? I’m building a heated enclosure and want to take it up to 70c will I need to cool the extruder? Will the motors need cooling too? I’m using the ceramic Ubis.
Truthfully, I have almost no experience with heated enclosures. We did one with the Pro - it had a huge heated bed and the chamber was quite warm. We ended up piping in cooler, room temperature air from outside the box through a big tube. The extruder motors were geared nema 17s so they weren’t hot but the print needed better cooling. The Ubis ceramic seemed to be fine. 70c doesn’t seem unreasonable. Let me know what you find out.
@Brook_Drumm Why did the print need cooling? What material was it? I’m just having some trouble with ABS prints sticking or curling. PLA was a lot more forgiving! So the cold zone just needs to be cooler than the hotend?
We were using PLA and abs, but it was made for the army to print exotics… Stuff no one has. Even running the PLA with a heated bed at 65c made that chamber pretty hot so we added room-temp air cooling.
The hotend should be fine. Without real data, I hesitate to make claims or guesses on cold zone temps. I will ask Carl, though.
A brass melt zone will mean it’s not suitable for abrasive filaments. That’ll be fine for the vast majority users, but people need to understand that before they try to use CF-loaded, or metal-loaded materials.
Agreed.
Hope it’s out in January. My ceramic ubis just bit the dust, have to wait until after the holidays to replace it.
No printed gifts this year 
Available now!
http://printrbot.com/shop/ubis-13-s-hot-end/
Perfect! Can’t wait to try it.
Will the vanilla Ubis 13 (not ceramic) somehow be upgradable to the Pro?
The Ubis P (pro) will use the same cold zone aluminum heat sink, the tip and one heater from the Ubis 13. It will add s longer heat break/melt zone and use an additional heater. Parts will be sold separately or you will be able to order one assembled and complete
Awesome! Can’t wait to upgrade.
Femie