I’ve been using washable (purple) Elmer’s glue stick thanks to a suggestion on reprap. Works really well on PLA - (Prusa HBP and glass at 50c)
Your findings are pretty much the same as mine. I have had less success with glue though. It depends on the size and shape of the part. If it has a “v” shape on the first layer, it is much more likely to lift. In fact I have had a large part lift and eventually break the glass in 2.
Kapton is my favourite, except for the problem of removal afterwards. I have recently used freeze spray to remove PLA parts (low height tiles) and it works really well. So maybe that will work with ABS on Kapton as well.
But really, ABS in its current form is always going to be a challenge. It is designed to shrink a little, so it can fall out of the mould when injection moulding.
I have been trying T-Glase as it is easy to print and supposedly strong. Have you print really slowly with it unfortunately.
@Ben_Jackson Off topic but how slow do you go when printing T-Glase ?
Printing with PLA, I use harispray on borosilicate glass, bed at 60C print at 210C and the adhesion is spectacular, even for parts that take the whole platform of my Rostock Max
Tried a couple in ABS and they worked just as well, if not better, but the bed had to be at 90C (which is as high as I dare go with the Onyx heated bed)
Is there an advantage to borosilicate glass over regular glass from the hardware store?
Borosilicate generally will have a significantly lower coeficient of thermal expansion, and will also resist bending forces much better. Remember those old pyrex bowls that you could drop off the top shelf onto concrete without breaking? they were boro. it’s a pretty fantastic material!
Borosilicate glass actually has a slightly lower Young’s modulus than regular glass, making it less stiff at the same thickness.
For real-life printing, it does not matter much which glass you choose - as long as it is at least 3mm thick, you won’t have a problem with cracking from the thermal stress or the forces from the printed part either way.
I have been using cheap glass from photo frames. It’s not ideal but they are good to use when learning. I have cracked a piece of this glass when printing a large ABS object (using glue stick).
I will have to look to get some Borosilicate.
Will that work better with hairspray than regular glass? My previous attempts with hairspray were pretty poor.
The only glass I’ve broken is through an abs sludge that worked way too well. I had to remove the glass with a screwdriver after it shattered.
I’m looking for a FLEXIBLE platform of some sort. Something I can just bend to pop prints off. Maybe one can be made with sheets of glass adhered to a rubber-like frame & in segments.
Glass with aquanet at 110c
Bare glass at 120C works for me surprisingly well. I tried everything else under the sun, but once I cranked the heat up enough, ABS stuck to plain glass like white on rice.