The grips on our neighbours snare-drum stand had perished and are no longer available because they haven’t been made since the 70’s. They were delighted when we could rejuvenate their £80 stand!
I also found that ninjaflex makes a good analogue for rubber. This makes it quite easy to create rubber fittings that are no longer purchasable. I made a nice motorcycle fuse holder to replace the broken one on my 30 year old motorcycle.
too bad ninjaflex is not fuel proof… it would open up a lot of other options.
@Carlton_Dodd
It’s really super easy to print… The most important thing with flexibles is to have a well-constrained filament path. In my set-up there is PTFE right from the drive gear down into the HotEnd (E3D-v6). With this setup I print happily at 15mm/s with 1.75mm filament.
It’s worth noting that I run the entire print at 15mm/s print speed; first layer, infill, etc… Keeping speeds the same helps massively with reliability and also ensures that the time the material spends in the HotEnd (despite being long!) is more or less consistent. This is important because you can tune the temperature to get good results. Too cold and there will be too much pressure causing buckling, too hot and you cook the NinjaFlex…
First layer height is also important - too low and pressure will build up in the nozzle causing filament buckling (happened to me a good few times…)
The cavity is only ~5mm wide so bridging is not an issue.
sounds like you came to the same conclusions as I did… This is the hot end mount I am using which also has a PTFE filament guide into my v4 E3D how end.