After they realised how easy 3dp is, they bought an “UP Plus 2” for their apprentices. ![]()
By now they print ABS models with raft on a heated bed. Even though the raft is warping. Is this a common behaviour?
More about it in German:
After they realised how easy 3dp is, they bought an “UP Plus 2” for their apprentices. ![]()
By now they print ABS models with raft on a heated bed. Even though the raft is warping. Is this a common behaviour?
More about it in German:
ABS and warping, join the club.
You need to experiment to avoid warping:
Try printing with your heat bed at 100 and also use the acetone “glue”, none of my prints have warped since I tried this. Get some of your scrap ABS pieces, and put it in a container with acetone, the ABS will disintegrate into the acetone, then when you apply it, the acentone will evaporate leaving behind a thin film of ABS, which your print will cling too.
aqua net hairspray has worked better for me than either kapton tape, PET, or ABS/acetone slurry. spray on bare glass, hot or cold, first layer at 90, the rest at 85C. no warp, no problem.
@Benny_Malengier & @Willem_Pelzer As I have not any experience with printing ABS, I recommended them PLA. ![]()
@enhydra
In my opinion ABS is better for prototyping of actual engineering pieces. PLA just keeps breaking on my when I don’t want it. So for me: PLA=decorative pieces, ABS=real use pieces
@enhydra Teaching can be a 2-way street…
But seriously, today I made my first ABS print with the use of 3dlac. This is some serious shit. It sticks allmost like superglue, so if you use that, your warping problems would be much less.
Thank you guys for your support.
Hope they can improve the print quality.
With the UP just put some material over the bed while you preheat it until the bed sits at over 100c for at least 10 mins. Also move the bed closer to the nozzle. Try this before using the glues, tapes etc