And it's done, after 26 hours, 22 minutes,

And it’s done, after 26 hours, 22 minutes, using almost the entire build height of the BigBox! Quite a bit of z-wobble left, though, looks like i’ll have to install those upgraded z-axis parts, after all.

Model here: fillenium malcon by aaskedall - Thingiverse

#3DBenchy for scale :slight_smile:

Great print man. I am contemplating on printing this in a grey PLA.

What kinds of parts are you using to decrease the z-wobble? I am trying to fix z-wobble on a homemade prusa-style printer.

That came out perfectly, congrats!

Nice print, that big box is solid. Very interested in a review video!

Fantastic , great print. Love the size

@Thomas_V May I just suggest ditching threaded rod in favour of proper leadscrew and nut. Threaded bar was chosen for it’s affordability but falls short on accuracy and usually has a little bit of bow. Another point is that M8 threaded bar is slightly less than 8mm diameter which means it sits to one side in most couplers at one end.

@Duncan_Gunn In theory the floppy M5 threaded rod shouldn’t be a problem so long as it’s not constrained. So long as the smooth rods are true, they should be what set’s the motion… Although looking at this design it seems like it’s already using leadscrews anyway and not threaded rod…

@Thomas_V E3D are sending out z-axis kits with improved tolerances - this is specific to the BigBox, though.
You can get wobblefree prints with M8 if you pay really close attention to your couplers, rods and nuts and make sure your linear guide is stiff enough to take some forces from a bent threded rod.
Also, machines with the z motors on top are, by design, less affected by the entire z-wobble affair as their couplers can work more effectively at taking up those tolerances.

Whats the difference between threaded rods and lead screws?

@John-Paul_Hopman the screw threads on threaded rods are made to bind under linear force, so that tight screws don’t come loose on their own. Leadscrews are explicitly made for linear motion and are generally better suited for the application, but are harder to source and more expensive. Leadscrews typically also have a higher pitch (linear motion per rotation).
Both can work wonderfully in a carefully engineered design, but both can also cause a royal amount of headache if used incorrectly.

@James_Cadman ​ I had a Z-wobble until I had an accident which slightly stretched my coupler. After that a small adjustment later and it Dissapeared. I guess I just got lucky but I’m improving my printer whenever I get that itch and so proper leadscrew seems the way to go for me.

How much filament?

@Julien_Dodokal just below 300g - good to have full 1kg spools instead of something like the 600 or 700g you keep seeing all over the place.

@Thomas_Sanladerer Definitely!

It’s beautiful!

Very good, have you seen the Filaflex version : https://plus.google.com/103213859179549909952/posts/1G3HcRYYLAy

if your going to buy a printer right now. whould you rekommend the BigBox?