Another gear disintegrated after 1 minute of test drive. If it goes like that soon all the parts will be of metal.
ABS … PLA … NYLON ???
I’ve tried all materials. My motor overcomes them all. I want to design the drivetrain for 3d printing. Much larger gear teeth. Perhaps larger everything. Yep, gonna make me some big gear boxes. Chunky and strong.
Brook I have the same problem. Maybe a slower motor will do the trick. That would be great if you can redesign it with bigger gears :). The part you see on the picture was ordered from Shapeways and printed using laser synthesizing. The material was plastic (nylon i suppose) mixed with metal. Did not last long.
Nylon? What about carbon?
maybe get shapeways to print it in metal
I have RC “VRX SWROD” and all gear parts is available - maybe just use metal gear for OPENRC from some popular RC VRX or HPI ?? … and redesigh chassis …
To find a ready made metal gear of an exact size would be difficult. I google but could not find it. Of course let shapeways print it in metal would be best. But when I looked at the price…wow…I better go off with the plastics 
I’m gonna figure this thing out. I may just reprint and improve the fit before redesigning anything. My rush to build left me with some errant tolerances. I have 90% metal drivetrain and the rest is injection molded. But I want a configurable drive ratio. Are there any designs for a real transmissions? Why not a super low gear…, shift into low to hand it to my son;)
@Boris_Tekaty Don´t despair, i have broken most parts in the Truggy and the diff gears aren´t one of them. I still use the same gears as in this video shot last summer: http://youtu.be/5mPUtSrMoLw so it´s most certainly possible to make a 3Dprinted working differential. They are printed in ABS. As noted in the assembly video, the fit is crucial, if it´s anything but perfect you can kiss it goodbye. When you put it together there need to be a little gap between the case halves. Enough for you to think “this can´t be right”… =) But it is. Put it toghether tight but not completely. Turn the axleshafts around until you feel it going easier and they start to wear in, then tighten the case fully.
The biggest problem i´ve had with the diffs was friction between the axle shaft and the casing. As things spin quickly heat builds up and the axle shaft starts to “dig into” the casing. To fix this i added washers on the in and outside of the casing connecting to the axleshafts and it´s working great.
The front and rear diff casings are made of nylon and the center diff is Tritan. The axleshafts are printed in Tritan or Polycarbonate.
Ahh pushed Esc and all the message is gone 
Thanks @Daniel_Noree for suggestion. I have figured out the “gap between” cases too otherwise it is sitting too tight and shafts having a lot of friction
Right now my problem is with axle shafts, The side that connects to the metal rods to the wheels , they just break all the time. So I found someone made a solid part with the cap and it seems to do the magic. Reprinting now:)
I think my next problem will be “dig into” casing as soon as I start to drive for real. I will try to find some thin washer on the outside (the inside seems to have a gap) and apply more greeze
By the way I have replaced central drive shaft with metal one made out of the screws, they are pretty solid now!
@Boris_Tekaty I didn´t like the washer idea at first because i had them lasercut and not everybody can do that. For some reason i did not use the reat Google Machine… search for 8x14x0,1 shims, there are lot´s of sources for those… =)