Any tips on how to prevent this from happening?
Printed on a Rostock mini
0.35mm nozzle
Slic3r:
0.2mm layers
3 perimeters
30mm/s
60% speed on outer perimeter
Play with your retraction settings
There is no retraction in this print!
Check your zsteps, zeroing height, or nozzle temperature? Looks like the nozzle is too high above the print surface and the filament is sometimes curling rather than going where you want it when the temperature drops.
This is a rostock, so there is no z-steps, but i’ve checked object dimensions and those are perfect. By nozzle temp you mean that the nozzle is actually hotter than it reads, or colder? I have no way of measuring the ‘real’ temp, but i’m using the famous EPCOS 100k thermistor and it fitted very nice in its socket (j-head mk v-b). But you think i could be printing to hot or too cold?
Michiel, you do have retraction, on every print your extruder will pull back on the filament so you don’t get ooze when it moves but isn’t supposed to be printing. Tht is what is causing your strings between your edges.
Are you using Marlin firmware, and printing from a pc via USB cable? Does the print progress go smoothly, or does it stutter and stall as it is printing?
Im printing from sd, its very smooth. And again: there is no retraction in this print. Its one continous line.
i am printing same thing but at 100 speed.
Also, check to make sure your nozzle isn’t clogged. Run filament in the air, make sure it’s not curling up by the nozzle
Its a brand-new hotend and it does curl up sometimes…
I used to get this with PLA when it would randomly start to over extrude. But it stopped itself after I’d used ABS for a few months. Things I think it could be: Wet filament. Crap filament. Too low an extruder temp. Mechanical issue in the extruder such as hobbed bolt off centre.
Weird, i use Faberdashery filament (which should be the best PLA out there… Could it be that im overextruding because the filament has a diameter less than 3.0mm?
Your slicer settings should be able to account for the actual size of the filament, if you’ve entered the actual diameter into its settings.
The Faberdashery filament is excellent, almost certainly not the issue. Try adding 5C to the temp?
I have a makerbot replicator 2x at work with makerbot filament. Both very high quality. I realized that I was burning the filament when I preheated the nozzle for too long. I would hear the extruder click as it was stripping the filament. I had to clean the hobbed bolt, put the nozzle under a touch to burn out the filament, rinse in acetone after for abs, then I ran a fine guage wire thru the top in the opposite direction of normal flow. That last step was what did it. Burning out the plastic without cleaning out the debris afterwards doesn’t fix it
*put nozzle under torch
Oh, just to clarify, I was using abs, so may be different than pla
I actually changed the pid settings in the marlin firmware. Dubbled the P value, temperature oscillation due too bad pid settings were probably causing this issue. Its much better now. I think it might be a bug in marlin because i used the pid autotune to generate pid values. But i have a pwm limit on my heater because i have a heater cardrigde that is just too powerfull. Maybe marlin doesnt take that into account when autotuning.