Anybody have any experience making one of these ? I am been debating on make this or one like it . i am opening to other builds if someone can link me … thanks
The one you’ve linked appears to be extremely well made, but not only that, the presentation is top-notch. The maker has provided a bill of materials as well as sources for those items. The general design is good and the extruded aluminum frame means it will likely be a strong and rigid printer, allowing for smooth printing.
I’d take this one one, if it weren’t for all the other projects I have that will never be started or completed!
D-Bot is a cool model but the corners are plastic so although it uses wide extrusions the weakest link in the chain is the plastic used for bringing it all together. I would try to drill and tap and bolt the extrusions if possible, otherwise use alu corners or brackets.
I have a 600mm tall one. Really good design that is based on this one http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/c-bot.1146/ made mime while the thread had a couple of pages only
I have a Sintratec SLS kit under construction. The frame is 20x20 extrusions using an unusual connector to join the corners. First a left-handed self-tapping threaded sleeve is screwed into the end of the extrusion. A T-nut or equivalent is slid into the other extrusion to be joined, either in a corner or as a T-intersection. Depending on the access available, one has already slid, head-first, a hex bolt into the extrusion that fits into the threaded sleeve or inserts one from the open end. The two tighten together quite securely. I’ve tried to locate the equivalent, but have only discovered this two-piece (not three) unit on McMaster-Carr:
@Ariel_Yahni_UniKpty I’d like to make one atleast 12"x12"
@ThatNerdMike that’s fine then. No issues whatsoever there
Make sure to update us if you end up doing it, I’d be curious to see how it turns out.
It’s very important what @Fred_U To anyone doing this or similar. You need those insertions and plenty of them. I got this from Mr Metric work very good M53065 250M5X.850M5X.8250M5X.8 Square Nut Steel 4 Zinc DIN562 (Rohs Compliant)$0.01
@Ariel_Yahni_UniKpty I meant the build plate 12x12x12
@ThatNerdMike all the same, its still small enough
I just wish I could find a kit all laid out and I can just buy that
I can relay to that. Had the same issue. Im working on a solution for that
Sorry Ariel I hate to be ‘that’ guy but the way I look at it is how will you know if no-one says. 
The word you are looking for is ‘relate’. Relay means ‘to pass on from an intermediate point.’
Of course it could just have been a temporary brainfart on your part, God knows I’ve had my fair share of them. 
@Elf_Tablet lol I’m pretty sure we all understood anyways.
Looks like a solid machine. however, it is a coreXY design which is not the easiest one to build and tune. Z-axis with one stepper and threded rod/ball screws fixed in bearings is preferable over 2 steppers with rods on couplers (because of the weight of the bed on the tiny bearings inside the steppers and compression of the couplers).
Eustathios could be an option for you as well, slightly more expensive but it’s a proven design and there is a (small but helpful) comunity around it. If you chose to build a D-bot I suggest to replace/enforce the plastic parts with metal corner brackets were possible.
Sorry–no kit for the Eustathios, but even with a kit you will probably change things…
@Daniel_F Eustathios is a great machine but just looking at the BOM will make you jump from a building. I think his looking for something simpler. I do agree that tensioning the belt will be an issue, but that’s part of it.
@Ariel_Yahni_UniKpty agree with the BOM–tons of different bolts and some parts like the bushings are difficult to source (in europe). Nevertheless I did not jump from a building…
Can cofirm @Daniel_F 's statement. Would call the Eustathios BOM complete rather than complex. Sourcing in EU is not to difficult. The bushings are the exception and prbably need to be ordered in US. Motedis is great source for 2020 frames in Germany.