anyone here using fsr auto levelling ? I’d love to hear what you have to say about it. correct me if I’m wrong but it seems like one of the few options that you would never have to adjust the Z offset.
What I’ve heard is that FSRs have a tight temperature range, so they can’t be use directly on a heated bed
@Ishaan_Gov I guess that’s the other problem.
just had a look at the data sheet, it seems ok.
Operating Temperature Performance
Cold: -40ºC after 1 hour
Hot: +85ºC after 1 hour
however the resistance will change at these temperatures, but I have a plan to combat this.
I’m planning on sending all the signal’s back an arduino pro mini, that would adjust for any small resistance changes as it heats up. but will trigger the z pin when a sudden change is detected.
an attiny85 could even it.
I kinda like the idea of having the FSR mounted on the effector itself–have a sort of hinge mechanism where the hotend is and springs pressing down on the effector, and when the nozzle hits the surface of the bed, it will lift off the FSR, increasing its resistance
Just a theory though
EDIT: kinda like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:520580
@Alex_Skoruppa i like it, you ever have to adjust z offset ?
I use RichCattell’s Marlin build on my Rostock Mini. Its not calibrated as well as I would like, but a G30 A command seems to work regularly within a dozen iterations or so.
I have a glass bed from a cheese cake pan that I just sit on top of the printer, haven’t needed to tighten it down which makes freeing prints a little easier.
While my bed is reasonably flat though, I do need to adjust the z-height after a calibration with an M666 Hxxx.xx command. I just play with the height using the paper test at the center.