Anyone up for a 36inch build platform?
As you can tell I still desperately need to cut my smooth rods. But the bearings seem to be working well so that’s a good sign.
Strangely enough my lm8uu bearings are much more fluid out of the box than the more expensive lm6uu’s. Just a little added info.
I hope you have more structure to keep the build plate flat. 
That would be interesting… 100mm wide and… However long 36 inches are in rest-of-world numbers… 
I wonder how well it’ll work… You could make model aircraft wings. Big ones.
When you cut it. Put the rod in a cordless drill and turn the rod slowly then cut it with a dremel and a cut off disk. Will give you a nice cut.
@Griffin_Paquette That looks great! I would do some deflection calculations. Even 12mm hardened rods won’t hold 1 lb (yep imperial units again) without unacceptable deflection for a printer at that length. I can speak from experience. This is the first calculation I do now when starting a build.
@Mark_Rehorst multi-point bed compensation!
I’ve drawn up several printers that just have the bed rolling on the ground with 608 bearings… Gotta build on of those.
Brook
Sometimes it is due to the seals rubbing on the shaft causing it to feel not as fluid.
Mine has broken to pieces last night, I hate that model ¬¬ it has several design failures, you will see when you mount the T2.5 in the X axis, with the 608zz that comes into the lm8uu, also in the Y axis when you see that the T2.5 belt goes out of its holder. Seriously Sergie would need to mount each model before releasing it in Github
I built 2 smartraps one with the older design and this one. The older one with bearing caps definitely held the bed better. I ended up pulling the 2nd one apart and building that ali frame one with the parts as previously posted.
My 1st one was also converted to dual print heads and a manual build table leveling.
Maybe the concept of using 2 bars for a rail is flawed and should use an L piece with the middle pointing up. Just my opinion. I am sure people would not like the weight of that either, but the shape should deflect less. You could also get the replacement L pieces from Lowes or Home Depot, etc.
@Michael_Scholtz I’m wanting to do dual extrusion as well. Can you post a couple of pics of yours?
3 stepper motors on those 2 skinny bars? Those poor skinny bars…Try bowden tubes or you will hear your printer howling in agony. Really, I would think that using “sturdy stakes” from the garden center at Lowes, etc might be a better idea too. Getting a bearing for a sturdy stake (you should skin it first, of course) might be interesting though.
@NathanielStenzel I’m not actually making it 36 in. And actually it is Bowden extrusion so I’m ok there.
@Griffin_Paquette huh? Why do I see 3 motors on 2 skinny tubes then? Are those motion control?
@Michael_Scholtz those are the motors that do not move up and down. The bottom right motor is the extruder motor. The top motor drives the bed via gt2 belt, and the bottom left motor is the z axis motor.
So I was right. One of those motors is an extruder motor. Either way, 2 or 3 heavy motors on those skinny rods seems like failure waiting to happen.
@NathanielStenzel I don’t get what you’re saying. None of those motors move on those rods. The z axis Ross are 8mm not the 6mm that the x and y axis’ are.
@NathanielStenzel the part with the three stepper motors is stationary, the two rods with the end caps is what the bed sits on.
