@Ben_Malcheski @Tim_Rastall Following on from previous posts. I spent a few hours this morning messing with the oozebane, now printing at 175 deg, 1mm retraction, 15mm/s retraction speed. Reducing the retraction speed from 30mm/s made the biggest difference. As you can see in the pics the stringing has been greatly reduced.
I printed this with 100% infill but there are still gaps. I did print a 20x20 calibration cube which was ok, no sagging in the middle. And look at the top of the print, the arch is very weak.
Try cura from Ultimaker
I also use Cura a lot. It works very well.
Does Cura work with a Prusa Printer?
It has maybe 12 variables. Input your machine specs, change the start and end gcode to fit your needs. It always slices and the gcode is ready to go. No more waiting.
You can use it as a slicer but it can host too.
If using a bowden extruder you’ll need more retraction. If
you can set a minimum layer time as in Slic3r that would help with the droopy arch.
Cura is a good slicer but a horrible host. I don’t recommend hosting with it.
Cura’s slicer is very good I used slic3r and tested a same print with cura and I was impressed. It works well with any reprap.
Is that pla or abs?
Have you checked that that temperature is accurate? If you think you’re printing at 175C, you’re probably using the wrong thermistor table.
@F_Malpartida This is PLA
It looks a bit cold to me, give it a shoot at 190.
Much better, I think it would be good to verify your temperature as @Whosa_whatsis said and maybe do a PID autotune.
As for the unfilled portions, switching to Kisslicer fixed those problems for me. I was able to put my Slic3r settings in and it worked very well after a couple tweaks.
This may be related to a temperature issue as well but it looks like you have some z-banding going on. Whosa whatsis wrote a good article about the possible causes in the first issue of Reprap Magazine. http://reprapmagazine.com/issues/1/
And now printing is posponed… one of the tension screws on the Wade’s extruder popped out (looks like a stripped thread) and the filament stopped feeding. I did manage to manually push through some filament so the hotend isn’t blocked but I’ll have to replace the nut before continuing. Ah well, these things happen.