+Brandon Satterfield, What is the possibility of getting a jig/set of jigs designed / produced & sold so we can properly configure our R7s with homing switched (the older ones, pre switch holes)? I figured I could just drill holes, but would rather know I’m using “known good” locations and evenly measured holes, vs having one Y off a few turns from the other and always fighting “true” squareness.
That being said, I’d recommend the front of the Y’s be changed so the foot the angle bracket mounts to the spoil board be inward facing, so the angle bracket or the bolt doesn’t hit the side plates as they move forward to “Home”.
I was able to find locations using the openbuilds brackets that did not limit travel in any way and in X and Y axis did not use the switch as a mechanical stop. They also did not require any drilled holes.
My largest concern is making sure both Y’s are equal. I had done a few projects that I spent a large amount of time ensuring were perfectly square, then i realized that the left was off a turn or two from the right, thus the X traveled at an angle.
Colin Kaminski, I seen your methods, and had started to put together a large shopping list to modify my R7 to mimic yours. Do you have any additional details? I may not have, but had planned to ask how long that extended bolt was you ran to activate your switch. Any information you can offer up would be great!
I think my process stopped when I was going to purchase a bunch of bolts (because I was unsure of the size) off of Ebay. Despite the initial cost, (buying much more than I needed), $110, there was an additional $60 for shipping. Plus, I was headed out of state for medical reasons, and the R7 was dead.
But, she is turning and I’ll be swapping over to CNCJS in the near future.
I can measure that bolt later. It doesn’t need to be as long as it is. It was an extra. I strongly suggest people don’t try to extend the Z-axis as I have until more experiments have been done. I have finally cut most of the pieces for the next stage of the upgrade but as it sits right now the stick R7 is much stiffer.
In order to sync and be able to restore square to the y-axis after a crash I squared the front C-Beams very carefully and then I twist the y servos by hand till they touch the front edge. Then I back off and home. I home top,left,front.
@Corey_Perez if the R7 keeps getting out of square bud the build is not square. We do not run dual Y limit switches, there is only one on one plate.
Your looking for a jig? The first ones I laid out I just held a limit up there and used a 2.1mm drill bit to get the hole location. Then followed with a 2.5mm tap. Bolts are M2.5 x 12.
Z and X are very similar.
Another thing to consider is if a y servo is skipping. I deenergize them once and a while and spin them by hand. They should move easily. I am also running at 2/3rds power up from 1/2 power in the instructions. I was having the Z axis slip after adding weight to it.
I cut up some scrap plywood yesterday to make a large square (the triangle shaped one) to make checking the R7 easier. Cut 3 narrow strips (~1"wide), drill a pair of holes for pins in each end (750mm C-C and 2x 530.33mm C-C to form a 45), and assemble. Twist one servo by hand to adjust if needed. I used ~30" long strips since they were easy to cut on the R7. I’m going to steal Colin’s idea and make something of a T-square with a leg long enough to get the C-beams aligned and then square up using the front plates.
@Brandon_Satterfield The problem was not dropping while at a constant height but skipping while lifting. Interestingly I had a cut skip on the X axis today under very light load. I heard it skipping and didn’t get to the kill switch in time to save the part.
