Calibration tweaking on the rostock max - I’m starting to get frustrated and thought I’d get the communities opinion. Settings and pictures of three calibration items (printed simultaneously) are in the gallery.
The 0.5mm wall box has some gaps (retraction? meant to be printed alone perhaps?)
The pyramid is a bit rough at the top - my cooling/layer time settings aren’t that agressive
I’m pretty happy with the cube steps, but there are fine strings on it and the pyramid. My retraction settings are a bit crazy, but do I need to go faster / longer? Or lower temp perhaps?
Infill was honeycomb, 22%, 2 layers top and bottom (rectilinear)
Any input would b e appreciated. All in all, I’m happy with what I’ve got here so far - I’ve done one tall vase and it came out great, outside of retraction pimples.
I would try one changing one setting a time, first I would reduce temperature printing one of the object as sample lowering 5 or 10 degrees every print. From the photo it seems to me too high temperature (is this PLA? know that every supply of plastic can be different, but if PLA, 223 degrees seems too high, try something around 210/205) another point can be too poor cooling from the cooling fan during small parts, as in the piramid. the base looks good, but the pillars look melted. You can try also to reduce the time for “small perimeter” in order to allow cooling of the parts.
Try dialling your speeds back, that pyramid should be printing external perimeters at 10-20mm/s I’d say. You are over extruding too btloi: I’d dial flow multiplier back to 0.8. Also, increasing your min layer cooling time to 30 seconds would help I recon.
The pyramid is defo not cooling quick enough between layers causing the structure to wobble when next layer is printing. Try printing pla as low as 185 or switching a fan on once the first couple of layers are down
Looks to me like your temp is too high. Remember that the thermistors are not calibrated and actual temp could be 10 or more degrees out of register with your settings.
I disagree on the overextruding bit. 0.8 (20%) is too aggressive to be pulling things back by; 10%+/- is all it should ever go. I like my prints watertight, and the top infill on this almost is. If you feel like dialing back (personal preference) I’d only dial it back by 5% or so. (0.95 in extrusion multiplier)
Stringing can be helped by reducing the heat transition zone of the hot end, as well as calibrating retraction settings. I do 130mm/s @ 5mm or so for things with a bowden tube, but that might be aggressive for the amount of retraction going on (you’d want to go a little slower so you didn’t tear up the filament so badly)
Reducing printing temp down to about 207 (or whatever that is in reality, as the calibration is far from accurate?) seems to have done a lot to help. Brought retraction speed up to 145, and length down to 8mm as well. Definitly was under extruding at anything beneath 0.93, I’ve got it at .95 now.
Still seeing a few wisps, but those probably can’t be eliminated with a bowden system and this shitty stock nozzle. E3D in tomorrow…
Huh, pretty insane retraction speed. I had the same as you at the beginning, but have had only bad results. Try lowering retraction to 4mm@30mm/sec. Also have all the speeds 20%around, or best all the same. It is because it will guarantee same nozzle pressure all the way trough the print. I know slicers should do the calculation but they do it wrong. This for starters and you should be more or less fine. Oh also min layer time way too small. I have 20 sec myself.
@ThantiK yeah I wasn’t really paying as much thought to that as i should have - in saying this with my old (http://hotends.com) J-head. I had to set slic3r to 0.8 flow multiplier to get it to do nice solid infill…
