Can any one help me with this it looks like a simple problem like temp but I can’t get it to work
Pla/pha 200microns 40mms bottom at 21cer the first few mm 200c 10% infill cura e3dv6 60c bed
Loosen belt? and/or extruder calibration?
btw, if you burn the front missed part, it will look awesome in an fish tank!
@Sebastien_Plante just calibrated my extruder and no loose belts, some bad bearing on the y axis though.
Try bumping the temp to like 240 maybe… or reduce speed?
Nah you shouldn’t need to print PLA at 240. 220 maybe… Has the printer worked fine before?
I think you need more cooling on the print. Are you running a fan? Please dont bump the temp up.
MOAR FAN! MOAR FAN! MOAR FAN!!!
You can print at 240 without any problems, but I was suggesting this to test if the fillament was flowing okay (sometime, bumping the temps help flowing. My next step was to ask him to reduce temps to like 170 to see if he still have the same problems (reducing speed would have done the same).
Didnt think of the fan… but if it’s the case, then, slowing the print or reducing the temps would help wihtout adding fan.
Printing PLA 40C higher than normal will at best not help at all and at worst burn it. The PLA is not cooling enough for the layer time, and the overhang slopes are sagging as well, which causes a goopy mess, especially on the more aggressive slopes. PLA benefits greatly from aggressive cooling, especially on shapes like that one. I use 2 carriage mounted fans for a total 20-30 CFM airflow and 1-3 6 inch AC fans on the entire build volume. The goal is to cool the PLA within seconds of leaving the nozzle so it has no time to sag/deform/curl and keeps perimeters clean for the next layer to print on.
I disagree with a blanket statement like “you can print at 240 without any problems” because that very often is not true. I have PLA that will burn (turn darker or brown) or ooze almost like water at temps that high. Best case is you have a tolerant brand of filament and nothing very bad happens. Worst case the ooze is crazy high and viscosity is so low that prints are much worse, or with some hotend designs even resulting in nasty jams due to heat creep. Situations vary, but when you have a problem caused by PLA being too hot and not cooling fast enough to hold it’s shape, increasing temp is not a good approach. Best practice is to extrude at the ideal temp for the material and address cooling issues with cooling.
If the fan situation is not aggressive enough to give good results, which can happen with many setups on small prints with short layer times, increasing layer time by printing multiple copies can help a lot. doubling the number of copies doubles layer time and gives more time to cool and can improve results significantly. It’s usually not a total cure though, especially on steep overhangs, since what’s happening is the outer perimeters are curling/deforming before fully cooling. Only aggressive cooling solves that. If anything, temps should be lowered, not raised, so the PLA extrudes less liquidy and requires less cooling before fully solidifying. The caveat with that is taking temp too low results in poor layer cohesion.
It is very difficult (read: almost impossible in many case) to get good clean perimeters on sloping overhangs with PLA without significant fan cooling in my experience.
I agree with @James_Paul_OhmEye this looks like not enough cooling to me. If you don’t have a fan you can turn on, try printing something along side the boat so theres time for the layers to cool more before printing the next.
Looks like your extruder extrude to much, or maybe you have a wrong nozzle diameter setting. I don’t think temperature has such great effect.
I would try it with regular PLA first. The PLA/PHA stuff is weird, and I’ve yet to get good results with it.
I agree with James. Another option is to swap Pla manufacturers. I use a PLA from one manufacturer that is bery forgiving compared with another pne. Also the colour makes a difference. Black requires higher temperatures than for ezammple Red and Yellow.
If you have cooling fan from one side rotate model, so the fan will blow at most steep wall.
It was the wrong nozzel size (.8 gcode .4) and no cooling.
Than you everyone for your help it was much appreciated.