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Checkitout #NotADelta #IGentUS

Best kitchen. Ever.

Only because the ABS is low-odor!

precious

What did you use to print it? I’d love to be able to run this kind of thing off as a basis for lost-wax casting, but only if I can get something workable using my (planned, not yet implemented) reprap . . .

It’s an #ingentis derivative. https://plus.google.com/communities/108524206628971601859

I stand on the shoulders of giants. That group is FULL of really smart people making really cool printers.

Additionally, printing it in ABS (heated bed) would let you use Acetone to smooth the surface, making for a better mold. Although I hear PLA is better and safer from a toxic fume standpoint.

I may redo it in PLA so the model has contrasting colors. (I only have black ABS)

That is a very nice part.

The only info I found on ABS toxic fumes is regarding what it emits when you burn it. Melting ABS isn’t anything close to burning. The smell of normal ABS is still unpleasant though.

If you’re worried about ABS fumes checkout my carbon filter

Works well.

I have 3d printed a PLA part on my Reprap Ormerod and gone from that to a sand mold and then cast it. Works ok, but because of the surface roughness you need quite a high draft angle to get it to release from the mold, and that means a compromised part. I found a site where the author used a mixture of sand and plaster of paris and then melted the part out, just Google “casting from 3d print” it’s one of the first few results. Pro’s are good quality and complex geometry. Cons are one casting per print. I have done a print to test this but I have to wait until they fire up the furnace at work next week to try it out.

Also, I’ll have to look closer at these Ingentus machines. I’m not happy with my current main machine. I’m going to try a couple things first, but am starting to consider another mechanism.

I’m still developing the write up on my printer (life is getting in the way).

I had a long and rocky road trying to make a delta print well. They’re pretty, and they’re fun to watch, and I did, eventually, get tolerable results.

And perhaps it was that pain that gave me the experience needed, but the new printer was making stellar prints from attempt #2. My delta, in 8 attempts, never successfully made the part pictured above.

Printing 11_-_Main_Fan.stl has more to do with your slicer than your printer, if your printer is configured correctly Delta/Cartesian/Other doesn’t make the difference.

That file does not slice properly with Cura and produces a printing path that is going to fail regardless of the Printer.

Take a look at http://i.imgur.com/pm1IPN2.png - that is the stl sliced with Cura, black lines being extruded paths and green lines being moves without extrusion. You can see that on the inner circle and some of the fan blades there is an inconsistent path (IE not full circles or straight lines as it should be). This is going to cause any printer to fail.

Here’s the gcode itself for the first 2 layers - http://pastebin.com/yXhv7f97

This happens regardless of nozzle size, same results with .2mm and .4mm.

Perhaps it works well with another slicer, maybe you could post your actual gcode that you printed with so we can see layer 1 to see that you didn’t have a zigzag when printing should be a straight line on the fan blades?

This STL is from GE’s Thingiverse object - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:392115

This one was sliced in Kisslicer, I believe. The delta tried a good dozen times to print it, and I suspect the issue there was starvation due to drag on the bowden tube. I’m running a good 95% success rate on the new printer where the onld printer’s success rate depended GREATLY on how big the part was at the center of the plate. 20cm x 20cm in the middle? no problem. 75 cm? good luck.

75cm? You must have one huge delta. Here’s a 140mm print of PLA (full plate) on a Delta next to the first 2 layers of that fan print.

Imgur

Check DELTA_RADIUS for flatness.

Whoops. No, 75mm, not cm. Full print envelope was 160mm.