Completed my own diy magnetic arm mod for the Rostock. Combo of my own arm connections, xnarion uppers on motors, traxxis joints, eBay magnets and infill 3d’s magnetic effector. A lot smoother and more “solid” than the rather lame stock arms. Made my arms from carbon fiber tube, longer than stock for improved accuracy too.
Alan, I’d like some advice. I’m planning on replacing my aging Cartesian printer with a delta. You rebuilt yours feeling certain old parts were not good enough. What brand was it? I’d rather not have to rebuild one. So what other brand could you recommend? Are there any under $2,000 that might approach your reworked model in quality?
On the side is there a good substitute for brass nozzles which wear out so quickly?
thanks
Good questions, something I pondered myself if I were to do it again.I have Rostock Max V2. Ive upgraded the Effector, Arms\Joints, Power Supply (to a 14v bench type, huge improvement) and switched from the stock brass+PTFE Extruder to a Prometheus V2 all Stainless Steel unit. Ive also put thermal paste between the Hot Plate and Glass and then also put a PET plastic plate on top of the glass, now I dont need glue, hair spray etc. These are all highly worthwhile… I wouldn’t really want to use a stock Rostock Max for long again. What I like about the Rostock is it’s fast, builds tall things and is moddable. What I dont like is a bunch of the stock parts are really showing 2013 era home 3D Printer legacy and also Delta’s in general have annoying bed calibration setup issues. Whats caught my eye is Cultivate3d’s “The beast”: http://www.cultivate3d.com/the-beast-large-format-3d-printer/