Thinking about converting my current Delta Style printer into a universal effector such that it can support single heater, dual heater or high powered diode lasers. So my first thought was how I could make it easily swappable.
Cabling tends to be a common pain in printer heads so the thought is it make a quick release cable but wonder if others have experience with any of the following connectors or similar. Essentially trying to make a common connector that will work for all effectors.
I am trying to make sure that the connector can handle the power but also be small so that it takes little effector space. It is a 24 volt powered printer and although current is a factor it will be lower than most printers at 12 volts.
The reason for the high pin count is for all components on various effectors and to allow for future expansion by having some spare pins.
The options being:
DVI-D connector:
24 pin high density pin count for all effector components
Reasonable current at 3A (I think per pin but data sheet is not specific so need to test)
Bolts down so should take constant movement okay
For heaters I can use multiple strands to support current (e.g. 4 strands instead of 2)
Downside: a reasonably large connector.
25 pin D-Sub:
25 pin high density pin count for all effector components
Reasonable current at 1A, data sheet confirms this is per pin
Bolts down so should take constant movement okay
For heaters I can use multiple strands to support current (e.g. 4 strands instead of 2)
Downside: although smaller than the DVI-D connector it is still quite large so would take up some effector space.
20 pin mil-spec/industrial circular:
20 pin high density pin count for all effector components
Reasonable current at 1A or 2A, data sheets confirms this is per pin but manufacturer dependent.
Can be had in bayonet clamp style for locking.
For heaters I can use multiple strands to support current (e.g. 4 strands instead of 2)
Downside: some models can be enormous in overall size (edge to edge)
USB-C connector:
24 pin high density pin count for all effector components
Reasonable power delivery, up to 100 watts at 20 volts
For heaters I can use multiple strands to support current (e.g. 4 strands instead of 2)
Downside:
No locking although it does click in so constant movement may be an issue.
Some random “tool” attempting to plug in their laptop or phone and releasing magic smoke.
I have designed our next printer specifically to do this. It is one of the reasons we went for magnetic ball joints and why the Nimble is driven with a pluggable drive cable.
For the electrics I planned to use this plug. It is a little complex so bear with me.
The list of components for a 20 lead housing is:
1 x 01504-5201 20 leads housing
2 x 05057-9010 10 leads Crimp housing
1 x 05065-0020 20 leads Panel clip
20 x 01602-0077 Crimp terminal male
It is a plug that fits in a Panel plug and in that plug you can connect the Hot ends, fans etc. using smaller plugs.
The biggest advantage of this method is that it is light. (Important for an effector. Another advantage is that it is flexible. The plug will accept 2, 3 ,4 etc plugs, so you can create a pattern of connectors.
That would result in this list:
For the hot ends, fans and sensor
2 x 05057-9003 3 leads Crimp housing (sensors)
6 x 05057-9002 2 leads Crimp housing (fan, thermistor, heater, etc)
@Pieter_Koorts you can’t guarantee the effector will always stay in place under any combination of inputs. What if you try to cut/engrave something that’s too big and you crash the effector into a column? Or if one or your endstops spuriously triggers and throws off the position registration? Or if there is an obscure combination of speed and effector position near the edge of the bed that exceeds a motor limit and you stall a motor? There’s just far too much that can go wrong in a delta to ever trust mag-balls with lasers. It’s stupid, don’t do it.
There are ways you can provide secondary retention to reduce the risk. For example, a tension line on each arm that holds tight enough to keep the balls from disconnecting from the sockets. Or rig up an arm disconnection detect circuit to kill the laser.
Good point. Cannot have enough protection around these type of lasers. Or enough cut out switches.
Always worried about stray reflections etc, but never considered the effector coming loose. Thanks Ryan.