Couldn’t find the (cracked) lid to the coffee grinder. 3D printing to the rescue! (Nylon 618)
Great job. Don’t you love the flexibility to fix things yourself.
looks awesome! any link you used to build the rostock?
@Ben_Jackson it’s great! Less than a minute in openscad and I had a working lid design and was warming up the printer. Replacements are actually available for purchase but why bother when I can print one faster and cheaper??
@Roberto_A_Diaz I got the seemecnc kit for the rostock MAX plus the “add-a-struder” so I could go right to dual extrusion. So far, other than printing a new nylon hotend mount to go dual, it’s a stock machine.
If you’re interested in printing nylon on a similar rostock machine, I use an unheated glass bed and these gluesticks: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PMJYAO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001PMJYAO&linkCode=as2&tag=rpgtab-20
They are so good I even left my first Amazon review about them. Just make sure the glue is completely dry before you print. Some glue will stick to the nylon, that’s fine, it’s water soluble and a quick rinse takes it off.
@Devin_Grady Have you reviewed the Prusa v2.1 3D printer? I was thinking about purchasing that 3D printer as a beginner’s 3D printer, may I have your or anyone’s thoughts? Thank you.
@Devin_Grady I have to try that. I have not had any success with nylon and blue tape. I have a bakelite board and the nylon sticks perfectly to that. A bit too perfectly as it is hard to get off.
@Mark_D My first printer was a Prusa v2 kit from Makergear. It was a good learning experience and a nice little printer. I highly recommend you get a kit for your first one and start with cartesian – they tend to be a little more intuitive to debug when you’re getting the hang of it. Always print yourself more spare parts right off the bat – they’re usually well designed for printability so good to start with and then you have spares when something breaks. That said, some of the other, newer frames may be easier assembly. Prusa i3, Nophead Mendel90 are the two very popular ones that come to mind. The new Printerbot metal frame looked cool but is significantly smaller IIRC. MendelMax 2.0 is big but is a lot more money and they seem to have less buzz.
@Ben_Jackson I tried a few things without success and read about the gluestick idea. The first no-name one I tried technically worked but gooped too much and the printhead got all covered in bits of glue! The ones I linked glide on in a nice even and thin layer, no z-offset needed. You can heat the bed to 45-50C so it dries really quickly but be sure to let it cool down before printing, I haven’t tempted fate and tried >40C but it works well having the bed sit at 40. It works just as well off though so you may as well save energy!
Thank you for the information I will get the Prusa i3
Nice work and isn’t it thrilling that we can now do such things at home?