Dafuque. Installed the old pcb heatbed cause the aluheatbed warped by increasing temperature
…
Not the pcb (3mm glas on top, same with the aluheatbed). Ive set the z-stop at room temp and its still the same height at max temp. Seems like cause the pcb is flexible the glas with the clips keep it straight while they cant on the aluheatbed obviously… I buyed the alu one because the heat is very even. Not as on the pcb.
Has anyone had the same issue with aluheatbeds?
#aluheatbed #heatbed #printbed #bending #warping
Mic 6 or some type of precision milled plate would be the best option. Was the aluminum 3mil thick?
I know PCB heaters can flex like crazy, but I’ve not noticed anything like that for aluminum-based ones yet.
yes it was. Well what milled plate? I milled things my self. Rolled plates even if hot rolled tend to warp because of the tension in the material. You either need a cast plate or a rolled plate both to be heat treated to remove all tension and then mill em. I see those plates, especially for 3D Printers everywhere but all just claime to be milled. Yeah. And then they bend when heated up? Seems like lots of people use it but iam not sure. Iam looking for some ceran (glasceramic) plate which i can drill (grind) and put a silicone heater on! But the only one I know is very expensive (but includes the heater):
http://www.ebay.de/itm/RF2000-Ersatzteil-Set-Passend-fur-renkforce-RF2000-/361564696005?hash=item542eef6dc5:g:zJQAAOSw71BXPvQA
@Nathan_Walkner
yes thats what Ive been complaining about. First I thought it was the hotend but nahh. Its over 3mm but warps about 0.35mm between 40°C and 125°C! Thats not acceptable!
@Thomas_Sanladerer
yes they do. But they are soft enough to keep straight by the glas on top which is fine. But one corner is 145°C while the other is 125°C. Maybe I picked a bad one or a cheap one but well… The alubed seriously does warp like hell in my case. Sadly. Thrown away money…
@Nathan_Walkner
well thats nice for you 
But I use PET, PETG, ABS, Nylon, TPE, TPU, Wood (PLA), PC and so on and most of them need different temperatures 
@VolksTrieb well, the glass doesn’t do much there. My first printer, with a MK2 PCB heater and a 4mm sheet of glass. had an issue where the second layer always separated from the first. You guessed it - lower temperature for the second layer.
@Thomas_Sanladerer yeah i remember that from your video. But how was the glas clamped down? I use 6 strong 19mm foldback clamps. So i suppose that that helps. The pcb heatbed isnt even straight when you lay it on the table so yeah it warps but the glas has to keep it.straight. Also the pcb heatbed has no springs under it. Its static with 4x M3 screws (with M3 nuts to adjust).
E3D makes a special pc board heater that is designed to have a more consistant heat pattern. It has more traces at the outside edges and less in the middel. I have been planning on getting one to try out but haven’t had the chance yet.
I like “floating” the glass on top of thin silicone heat transfer pads (0.5mm is good) between the heater and glass, rather than using clips. That way the glass stays flat regardless of how much the bed warps. If you put the pads near the edges where the PCB is secured, the height won’t change either.
Another option is to laminate a sheet of glass to a thin (1-2mm) aluminum heat spreader to fix the uneven heating issues.
