Did anyone of you have a similar problem with the glass bed?

Did anyone of you have a similar problem with the glass bed? What is the reason for that? Thanks.

Yup, seen that. If you print direct to glass (i.e. no hairspray, glue, ABS juice or whatnot) then some materials will rip the glass off when contracting. The biggest offender by far is PETG or similar, but I had this once with ABS.

So, use something on the glass. Also, buy ordinary window glass which works just as well and is far cheaper.

Some glass used for tables are borosilicate…cut that instead…lol…

It generally happens to glass that’s older. If you use metal tools to remove parts, you create micro scratches and cracks that will eventually cause the glass to stick to the part upon removal. Even though boro glass has very low thermal expansion/contraction, it still expands and contracts.

Use PEI, Buildtak, Kapton, or some other build surface, and you won’t have this issue.

this is why, IMHO, we should be looking at using mic6 going forward rather then glass. that type of glass will laminate.

mic6 is nice (super flat, even heating) - but it’s not without negatives. Specifically, cost, “replace-ability”, and heating time. Also, aluminum isn’t a great surface to print directly onto.

Anybody tried granite tiles? 12x12" at my local building supply for ~$5 usd. ~1/4" thick.
I’d think they’d take a while to heat up though.

dont think granite will be good for heat. its more of an insulator

@Taylor_Landry mic6 is a little more then borosilicate but unless you do something stupid it will last you a very long time. and as nathan has. a little gluestick and good to go.

Thank you all for your comments. Do you think this might be a solution: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fe-l80z27b4&feature=youtu.be ?

I’d try zebra plate if you don’t want to go mic6 tooling plate

@Phillip_Ramirez I was also thinking that zebra plate is a valid solution

I’ve been using zebra plate for 6 months now and I print mostly in pla but this stuff really is amazing, my prints never have a problem sticking and if there is some print residue left on the build platform just lightly sand it, it only makes the print stick better and I would recommend it a millions times…I just wish it wasn’t so pricy , I built a very very large printer and for me to buy the size I need if they would be able to make it would be $1000 but it’s a amazing print surface, great surface finish and adhesion, definitely worth it for your constant use printer

@jason_lipavsky Yes , indeed I am buying the Zebra skin and I will try to fix my bed. Good to know! :wink:

One thing to know is it is a plastic of some sort and isn’t impervious to being gouged by the hotend but scars are minor

Make sure your height is right

@jason_lipavsky I guess I have to re-calibrate the z axis after, so it will probably be fine

And fyi, I have tried printing on everything I could find from different glasses to plastics and even carbon fiber and zebra has been the best, just be aware of hotend height and your golden on whatever you want to print, oh and 1 more thing, run your first layer really slow, just to make sure you get a good bond and then print as fast as you want…

I posted a link to my thingiverse