Does anyone use off-3M blue tapes? What do you use to remove tape residues?
I use Harbor Freight tapes that yields to heat. The first layer sticks extremely well - no more cleaving/warping like with 3M. This solves my early trouble with adhesion, just too well. I tried glue stick/hairspray on top of tape. They ease tear, but does not prevent it especially during larger prints. So I didn’t bother with this print.
Previously I used scraping tools, even sanding and filing. But this time, I tried to wash it off with steel wool used in the kitchen. It works quite well. (The second picture exposes the bottom sides.)
Looks like, to me your first layer is too low. I never have that issue with blue tape unless I wipe it with rubbing alcohol.
I agree with @Keith_Applegarth . I can see some overextension in your first layer that could cause the issue. Like he said this only happens for me if I rub down with alcohol. I use Duck brand tape though
To remove, I soak the whole thing in alcohol.
@Keith_Applegarth Are you using the 3M tape that everyone recommends?
Yes, part of my first layer is low, in part because I can’t get auto bed leveling to completely level so some corners are deeper. I suspect that I have some tower alignment issue, but haven’t found an easy way to eliminate it. I’ve watched some manual adjustment method to set G29 that is really painstaking. Meanwhile, I’ll see how far I can lift first layer without the other corner cleaving.
@Griffin_Paquette You confirm my impression that different brands have vastly different properties. The original 3M tapes on Ares 3D printer’s plate is hard for the first layer to adhere to. I tried glue stick/hairspray on the bare glass for some time, but result was very inconsistent, and warping was severe. After I use Harbor Freight tapes, adhesion problem and warping are completely gone. (Another Canadian on the Ares forum also reports a home improvement store brand tape having similar properties.)
For me, water and some abrasive tissue remove this tape perfectly.
@whackyhack I have switched between glass and glue stick/hairspray and blue tape for about two years. I never had a ton of luck with either until I switched to the Duck brand. I just wipe it down with alcohol if I really need a large part to stick and never worry about it again. It’s crazy good. No separation between the tape and the bed not the tape and the print. Check out my post from a couple weeks ago. I made a quadcopter arm that was over 200mm long without any heated bed and it was perfectly flat.
@Griffin_Paquette duck brand blue tape? Or another type? I’m having issues with the blue tape lifting from the glass.
@Stephanie_A yes I am using the Duck brand (I think same as the duck tape). Just picked up the widest roll they had.
The key to getting it to stay is to have a really scuffed up surface. I put it on my aluminum bed which had a pretty smooth finish and it pulled up a tad. But I just took some medium grit sandpaper and made some passes into it (circular motion works best) and now it is incredibly hard to come off. The adhesive on their tape is very nice.
And keep it clean… I have a jug of rubbing alcohol next to my printer…
i’ve actually switched to mod podge (the regular matte type) on my aluminum bed over the course of the last 3 weeks. have gotten some pretty impossible prints to stick really well.
i just use a sponge brush to do a really thin coat on the bed and then heat to 55C, cool down and print.
i’ve had a hard time getting PETG to stick to different kinds of tapes, glue sticks, diluted glue (different pva types), and a few other things.
the first layer bonding is extremely strong to the point it held what amounts to an upside-down triangle based on a thin extrusion line (0.67mm) which grows to be ~8mm at ~10mm layer height.
tested on a friend of mine’s enclosed printer with a few ABS prints he had problems with and it also worked like a charm.
