e3d calibration Got a package in the mail! Spent the evening assembling,

e3d calibration

Got a package in the mail! Spent the evening assembling, then rolled up my sleeves to print some plastic! Calibrated the envelope, ran the self-calibration tests, and went to make a print!!! (It’s been a long wait to get back here.)

Looking at the temp, I suspect the constantly on fan is keeping the system from reaching equilibrium…anyone have an e3d in a 3DR? What’d you use for calibration? I figured out why they tell you to have it always on (the motor doesn’t like PCM), and it’s a helluva improvement over my aborted attempts…so how do I get past this?

If you are using marlin do a PID auto tune. Make sure the right thermistor is selected in the config.h file as well.
When I did mine I tried auto tune with different targets and got different results.

Fan always on is to keep the cold end cold, the hot end hot with a small transition zone.

The 3dr Marlin firmware didn’t have the thermistor table for #8, I googled it, and added that chunk to the thermistor table code and reflashed successfully.

(Eta: and I did run M303, twice )

@Mike_Miller Did you put the results into your start G-code or into the firmware ? I useed 200, 230 and 250 C targets and ultimately settled on 230 results

The thermistor table is based on the thermistor you use not the firmware. You probably shouldn’t be getting a new table unless e3d used some crazy thermistor. I think you use number 5:
http://e3d-online.com/100k-Semitec-Thermistor

Hmmm, I was basing it on the documentation on their website: “Wire your thermistor and heater cartridge up to your electronics – refer to your electronics documentation for this step.
The thermistor is an EPCOS B57560G104F ; In Marlin you can just select option 8 in new versions, or option 1 in older ver- sions.”

Saw something when I got mine about changing to the Semitec in October. Doc may not reflect the change.

Their doc is old. I’ve asked @Sanjay_Mortimer to update it, but nothing yet. If you bought it in the last 3 months it is definitely Semitec.

1 is working much better. Now I’m back to my original first layer and Bowden problems.

Try insulating the metal of your hot end. Qu-bd has some ceramic tape insulation for pretty cheap that I bought for the same reason. Be sure to use plenty of laptop tape to hold it on as mine got ripped off a handful of times.

I have a wrap of ‘self fusing’ or self vulcanizing tape around my hot end. Its rated for 260 C. @nop_head has blogged about it. I did it to make sure the thermistor stayed put ! Glad to hear you are past the hot end issues.

+1 on the self fusing tape. Great stuff.

With #1 i kept getting clogging on my E3D. Switched to #6 and no more clogging and prints are great.

PLA or ABS? I’m looking at this thing and it wants 230C using #1 for PLA to flow…I can extract at 200mm/min all day long…it just STREAMS out…tell REpetier/Slic3r to lay out a model and it just doesn’t want to extrude a model.

Mike - again, if you bought it in the last 3-5 months its a Semitec and should be using #5.

A little piece of paper in the ziplock (or, heck, just marker on the outside) saying ‘hey, this is a X thremisor of value Y’ would have been helpful. I guess it’s par for the course when we’re out here building our own…