@AlohaMilton - point, however, I’ve put the side clamping mechanism on the printers that @Florian_Ford mentioned. Works really well.
@Ax_Smith-Laffin Glad could help …
This is why I love this community :3 Thanks again.
I come back to this post with a question: … why would bed clips ruin the sock? in what situation would the nozzle run into the clip? If your glass is slightly larger than the usable print area, the nozzle wouldn’t run into the clips, assuming they are outside this area.
It’s the back of the bed and the way it’s clipped. I normally don’t go to the full 200 on Y but when I’m not concentrating I end up messing up. It’s not a big issue, and I’ve reduced the Y Bed size in S3D a little to stop me messing up again.
I would have thought that the clip is in the way where the Y endstop is and that’s why you run it through the clip but somehow I feel that it is/should be easy to adjust. In my design it is really a PITA because not only the nozzle is so low but also the whole carriage that it risks running into whatever clips/system I would have for glass clipping.
Not really 200 is right on the Endstop, Y homes to max and there’s little to no wiggle room on Y apart from shrinking the bed in firmware and Slicer, there’s not really much I can do with the design.
Ok, I understand. So now the glass corners work for you…
Sort of, they don’t pin it as well as clips do. The FB2020s are 3 point levelling, so don’t have the pressure against the front corners to push the heater PCB up.
config ur Firmware not to drive over the clamps. its not good for the nozzle ether, especial under 0.6 and in Brass.
@Este_ban_S I fully realise that. However, re-jigging firmware when your print queue is about 100+ hours long, need the quality from that printer and you have customers waiting isn’t optimal.
ur right but in general (i dont have a farm but i love it if i dont have to borther whatever im printing) i think reconfiguring would bi priorety.