Finally got my build finished and the electronics in place. I have an issue with my Y axis binding/making screeching sounds. When I put each individual Y gantry on they slide on smoothly, I can also turn each Y axis by hand easily. Any suggestions what to troubleshoot first?
From here I make sure everything is square and the the Y axis beams are aligned front to back to be even. I tighten down one side and run the y axis to the front edge. make sure it touches both side’s ends at the same time. Then tighten one end of the free y axis. Run the router to the other end and tighten the last hold down.
Cut a 30”x 30” square and measure the diagonals. If they are equal you are square.
Then measure the 30” distance and calculate you correction. If you requested it to move 30” and it moved 30.125 inches you need to enter a correction. Where that goes depends on your controller. Then correct the Z axis.
If you are really ambitious you can check the Z axis for square. But it will be close enough for most things already. You might wait till you need it perfect.
Cut some parts! There is a lot to learn about getting the table zeroed and getting the right gcode generated. The first few weeks were really frustrating for me. It gets easier.
@Colin_Kaminski hit the nail on the head. Pull your y axis all the way forward and measure if it is the same on both sides. Square is critical also. Check your motors also. It seems that it might be getting skewed and binding. See if you missed anything during assembly. Check if something is physically binding the y axis.
I had a problem with my Y axis getting skewed. I set it up and set my motors to always be on so it didn’t do it again.
@Brandon_Byrne what stepper sticks did you go with? Recall you were smoothie
Just a thought from my own experience…make sure that the Y motors are configured to move in the correct direction with each other. Check that both motors are wired properly and aren’t fighting each other. It kinda sounds like one motor is dragging the other.
I am using the BSD109A. I think some of my wheels may be too tight so I will check that. Also, with those acme blocks that have the screw adjustment you can tighten, how exactly do they work? With the adjustment fully loose it still seems a little tight going through the acme block.
@Brandon_Byrne my acme blocks were tight also but it was not a problem. I was still able to turn the rod but it’s was hard. I don’t think your wheels are to tight. You said you can turn it by hand easily.
If you suspect one servo is wired backwards you can check by loosening the set screws on the coupler and sending a command.
The steppers both go the correct direction. I won’t have a chance to trouble shoot until tomorrow but I think the first thing I will do is look at the gantry and try to see if it’s binding somewhere. How important is tensioning? I was having a lot of trouble holding the stepper motor coupling, tightening the acme with the plastic piece, and then tightening the lock nut. As soon as I’d let go of either the plastic piece or the coupling it would unwind before I could tighten the lock nut.
The tensioning is important when you want to scroll very quickly. I use visegrips on the ACME thread. It’s easier.
Ok, update: I had some time to investigate earlier. I took the lock nuts off to release tension and unscrewed one side and other than the sound of the acme clinking around it’s smooth. Going back and forth I got it as squared as possible but it still creaks a little. As soon as I tension the acmes (it’s not that tight) it completely binds up. The end plates were slightly too small for the bearings, would that be causing the acme to bind?
There is a washer between the collar and the bearing and another between the coupler and the bearing. If they were missing it would bind under tension. I don’t think the bearing seat could be an issue.
@Brandon_Byrne it is very easy to apply too much tension. The (let’s call it R6.9) had thrust bearings. This quickly demonstrated excessive wear and other issues. You only want to take the play out. Hence the little plastic ACME plate. Hard to go too far with it.
Check for scrapes on the C-Beam. Look for bolts dragging from the mini-wheels.
None, move to the next test.
Remove all the screws holding the build down.
Move the machine to the rear.
Fasten down both rears.
Move the machine to the front.
Fasten both fronts.
Don’t worry about square yet.
Jog about a bit, still there?
Let us know.
@Brandon_Satterfield No scrapes on C beam from wheels. I unmounted it and went forward, bolt down, backward, boltdown, and it freely moves without any issue. I determined that the squeaking was actually the acme’s grinding on the end plate that the locknut sits on. I added a bearing to each side and now the motion is completely smooth and squeaky free. Did my first cut, just a simple 30x30 square, didn’t have a super precise ruler but it measures 30 x 30 with diagonals the same. Really impressed with this machine; now to start designing and mill out an enclosure mounting plate for the electronics.
Good work! Now the fun begins!
Yeah, time to dive into reading about CAM and materials, spindle speeds, feedrates, and end mills. There is a lot to learn, it’s not like 3D printing at all where you just send a file and get a part.
@Brandon_Byrne I’m glad you are up and running. Learning all this be stuff is half the fun. You know that. Or you wouldn’t have invested over $2000. Did you purchase a program with it?
Gentleman, if you ever learn all of it. Write a book I’ll buy it. I’ll be firing up on some carbon on a mill in a couple of days. Looking forward to breaking bits and wasting material while I learn feeds and speeds.
I’ve been using Fusion360 for the last year for 3D printing so it seemed like the natural choice for me. I may explore some other programs though, I’d like to experiment with converting image files to CAM.