Finally i manage to get my printer up and running, but while trying to print PETG if simply wont stick to the bed,
Im using eSun PETG white, i started using 250c /80c using glass and buildtak, it didnt work no adhesion at all, then i moved to 245c/80c alum plate with blue painters tape and glue stick, same problem, it all stringy dont know whats wrong, any ideas?
Note, there seems to be some pressure and leaking on the nozzle, but thats my fault for not tighthening
Always print with a brim or raft. Brim should be fine.
First layer should be 20mm - 30mm range.
Do NOT use a fan unless bridging. With more experience you can, but for now, don’t.
Raise the head slightly higher for your first layer. Pla requires squashing its first layer. Petg will naturally ooze and spread and too low will cause it to drag the material before it can stick.
Your bed must be level. Petg is sensitive because of its first layer adhesion struggle.
Petg is very sensitive to over extrusion. Most recommend reducing your multiplier by 5% to see what you get.
Always print with a brim or raft.
Always print with a brim or raft.
@Greg_Copeland for adhesion maybe but brim can mess with moving parts on small tolerances. And with detailed joins of separate printed pieces, can be a real pain to clean up. Brim and raft only when it needs it.
If the nozzle is leaking your gonna have a mess soon and it’s gonna start smelling like you making smoores. Take care of tightness first by making sure it’s hot while snugging it.
My advice to getting filament to stick, is dialing down you hotend bed offset.
While printing 1st layer, get your eye down level with bed. If filament dropping to bed, needs to be lower, or smaller offset. It’s important filament not “dropped” but layed down if that makes sense. If you want great adhesion and ok sacrificing that first layer, reduce offset so your first layer is literally squishing the lines together. After the print, flip over and you’ll see what I mean.
I use glass and glue stick, and never have problems since I learn these few tricks.
My Marlin firmware supports Z nozzle offset, so I can dial it in.
This is the type of extruder i use, except the blue addon, i use it for flexible filament and the petg is twirling after the extruder gear, my tought is, its behaving like a flexible material and even with 100% extrusion its not having enought force to extrude, will try to print later usong this configuration and lets see what happend
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Brim allows flow to stabalize and stick well before the part begins. Always use brim unless you know you don’t need it. For fan use, brim is likely a must.
Print with a brim to starters, for sure. Refine later. If the brim won’t stick there is no reason to try anything else. Abort until brim starts sticking. Then finish print and refine from there. Telling people to avoid good adhesion is bad advise.
Can’t stress enough to make sure head/bed gap is correct, bed is level, and using a brim. This is 99% of the common problems, assuming temps are correct. Checks indicate he’s using the right temp ranges.
If your extruder can’t extrude the hotend isn’t hot enough or is clogged.
@lightshadown can I ask what you mean by twirling. Is it grinding, and filament not coming out of hotend? Looks like it from your chewed filament and bits. If so, could be your extrusion is not calibrated, and your pushing out far more than you think. This might cause jamming, but somewhat unrelated to adhesion. Although underextrusion, your likely going to get adhesion issues in general.
If this is a new printer, and your post suggest it is, you probably want to go through some basic troubleshooting. For calibrating the extruder use some tape and a caliper. Put tape a know distance up, and manually extrude. Remeasure.
On a PETG note, you have to run hot at possibly 230C+, so a few things. Teflon breaks down at these temps. If your hotend is all metal, then lubricating with a filament filter, sponge and canola oil might help “Season” the metal parts. Even with a teflon lined throat, I “Season” the nozzle with canola every so often. If you have a telfon throat, and running too hot, you might of cooked it.
Maybe post a video on the issues your having, could be more to the story.
I use an all metal hotend e3d v6 clone, my problem was the bed itself, i was using a heated bed 80-110 c first with buildtak+glass then i moved to painter tape + stock aluminium plate, i had to shutdown the printers bed and print on the painter tape unheated bed to archive adhesion,
The printer is not new, i usually print on ABS only and i manage to archive great prints, but i wanted something diferent, now im trying to print PETG at 240c unheated bed 70% extrusion on first layer, 80% extrusion other layers, but i get jams above the heatbreak, if i use 250c i get jams on the nozzle for cristalize PETG, will try to print at 245c tomorrow,
already archived half benchy on blue PETG, it looks amazing and worth the pain.
I think I print my first layer at 5-10mm/s for PET-based filaments so it doesn’t tear itself off the bed. Blue tape wiped down with windex or alcohol.