Finally upgraded my extruder to @Eclsnowman 's hurcustruder. The difference is night and day! I can now start a print and leave. No fiddling with the bed to make sure the plastic doesn’t jam. Planetary stepper just powers through. I also quite like the filament spool mount. Only complaint is that it’s much harder to change the filament.
I took the time to re-enforce my hotend (It could move slightly along the Y axis, resulting in some ribbing) and actually mount the printer board to the printer itself. I’ll eventually do the same with the PSU.
I printed a 30mm test cube, 0.2mm layer height, 40mm/s inner perimeter, 20mm/s outer perimeter, 50m/s infill. It’s alright; nothing really spectacular though. I would like to get those faces super smooth though, even at 0.2mm. Any suggestions on how to improve this?
@Erik_Scott I have a “bird nose” on my classic Greg’s Wade’s pusher. It allows me to set the tension and then quick release whenever I need to inspect the gear teeth or change filament. Then when I put it back in place, then tension is exactly what it was before. If I’m going PLA to PLA, or ABS to ABS, I don’t need to mess with it at all. Something similar here would probably solve this problem.
@SirGeekALot I agree the quick release lever is a must have for this type of extruder. It allow quick disengage of clamp without touching the spring tension. So always back to the same compression after filament change.
@Erik_Scott Have you calibrated your E steps? There is tiny ripple in Y face. I wonder if there is any guide in tuning acceleration and jerk to eliminate this.
Weird, I failed to find “hurcustruder” via google… Where do you get it?
I need to discard my own one (that fails with a speedy 24V delta) and I was currently looking for an alternative…
@Eclsnowman Doh! Should have gotten the spelling correct. It was late when I posted so that’s going to be my excuse. Thanks for the positive comments though!
@SirGeekALot do you have any pics of your extruder? I’m looking for ideas on how to possibly add a lever to more easily change filament.
@hon_po I have indeed calibrated my E steps, and I seem to be extruding the right amount. Off the top my my head, it’s about 480 steps/mm. @Eclsnowman , does that sound about right for a 5.18:1 geared stepper?
I am printing it with XT (colorfabb), but it had a lot of trouble with the really steep concentric overhang of the body… This material is great, expect for bridges where it fails a lot (I never was able to drag more than 1-2 mm of it in the air). Still should be fairly OK as I expected.
@Eclsnowman good, I’m in the right ballpark then.
@SirGeekALot thanks for that. Seems pretty clever. I may give it a shot.
@Jeremie_Francois I didn’t have any trouble printing it with PLA. I do have a fan + duct directly cooling the extruded plastic, however, which helps a ton with overhangs like that.
@Erik_Scott yeah no doubt PLA would be much easier. But I wanted a rock solid stuff, and temperature resistant (which is why I opted for XT). WIll most probably re-print some parts in CFPLA. if it works fine and does not heat too much (working with 24V at high speed…)
All mine are abs. I can print the assembly of all components at 80mm/s easy, which is why I love abs… It just seems to run better at high speeds than PLA.
I highly suspected that – but ABS is the only material I never print. At 200mm/s (nozzle=0.6mm) my own extruder completely fails, but I highly suspects the MK8 chinese bolt is crappy…
Not sure 1.75mm gives enough grip btw.
Ref: https://github.com/MoonCactus/fisherstruder/blob/master/fisherstruder.jpg
@Eclsnowman glad you like it! Indeed the idea was to be very compact, easy to print (2 parts), and compatible with a reductor – an interesting challenge I was given by a friend. The shape quickly came out (could not have 3 screws b/c of the place it stands in our deltas - has to be flat). I thought about making it even hollower and faster to print as it is really tough, but it would better benefit from a quick lever like yours (no easy solution here). I would improve it if the grip suited me, but it sucks. I would better go and print myself another good old rollerstruder instead. Hey, what would be your recommendation for a very reliable 1.75mm bolt?
@Eclsnowman lol, who on earth is still making his own bolts?
Not sure it would be easy for 1.75mm filaments but it is worth the try. … will check this week end and tell (I am sure I can do at least as bad as what I have here)
