First prints … welll… I have mixed feelings. While the whistle is okish, the teddy bear cookie cutter I am doing is not so successful. The first layer didn’t stick well at all and it’s now curling on me pretty badly. I am lucky it didn’t catch on the nozzle or PINDA yet.
I will ask for your patience and advise as I go through this learning curve, having an otherwise pretty busy schedule :-s
I must confess I didn’t do Extruder calibration, nor any PID tuning or other exotic stuff, this is basically what comes preset with the MK3. The only thing I did was the Z fine-tuning, which is part of the initial MK3 calibration.
Print quality looks pretty good, try just bumping the bed temp up 5-10 C to combat curling.
Yeah, it looks okish quality-wise, but it curled a lot… like ABS …is functional though 
@Florian_Ford If you tune the extrusion alot of the lines on the side will go away and the parts will be smoother!
Also, as Adam said, bump up the bed temp a little and that should do the trick. Good luck!
The top surfaces look a little under extruded to me or the surfaces do not have enough layers. Top and bottom surface thickness should be a minimum of 4 times your layer height for really good surface quality.
Try increasing your extrusion multiplier by 5% or drop your nominal filament diameter by 0.05 and see it that helps. It will also help with first layer bed adhesion if the proper amount of filament is coming out. You can run a set of “C” calibration clips and those will tell you if the thermal properties of your filament are under or over extruding.
@Jeff_Parish it’s hard to tell because there’s not much surface area but I think the issue is mostly infill overlap which was an issue with the MK3 originally.
Florian are you using the most current drivers/slicer? (updated Jan 5th)
@Adam_Steinmark You are right that it is hard to tell. Using the whistle as an indicator and seeing similar results on the little bit of flat surface there is on the bear. An infill overlap issue for other reasons would result in a similar surface quality.
Thanks guys, I will try to tune up the extrusion (Z fine-tuning, steps/mm, extrusion multiplier, do like suggested a set of “C” calibration clips, ANYTHING ELSE??) and bump up a bit the bed temp. Would it be necessary at this point to think of enclosing the printer?
Do you have a good tut for the extruder calibration, maybe some other steps you would do/suggest (PID tuning,etc)?
Don’t arbitrarily increase your extrusion multiplier or mess with your filament diameter, these are the wrong values to change for your issue. Perform Z fine tuning, increase bed temp, and check that your extruder is calibrated correctly (tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y). You should only change your filament diameter if your filament is out of spec. You should only mess with the extrusion multiplier after you’ve ensured that your extruder is calibrated correctly.
BTW there is also new firmware for the MK3 only as of 3 days ago as well as new drivers. I also went and fixed my friends MK3 who was having issues with PLA jamming in the heatsink but you’re not having this issue.
@Adam_Steinmark I believe I already have that latest firmware, the prusa3d_fw_3_1_1_rc5_b150 (yep, that’s the one).
// Photo from the build-log album I shared https://photos.app.goo.gl/VE34WpRElhicLNdH3 .
@Florian_Ford just to make sure there is no misunderstanding you need to confirm the mechanical calibration of your printer first before trying out the “C” clips. The calibration clips are for compensating for the thermal properties of each individual filament and are only recommended based on the assumption that your printer is properly calibrated mechanically first.
