First try came out better than expected, but no where near what I need for a test. The broken teeth are from me being too anxious.
The next try will be done more patiently. And a small change to the mold allowing for pieces to fit together more accurate
I dont mean too be too critical, but why are you trying to mold parts? I think the driving force (no pun intended) is to be able to replicate these parts with FDM 3d printing. With that said, I hope you achieve your goal!
The parts when printed are in plastic and layered since most people use an FFF printer. Using a mold, and filling that mold with JB Weld Steel putty should make a part that can withstand more. There are also options of mixing in fibers to increase tensile strength for parts like the wishbones that break very often.
Just looking at that gear your angles are wrong for the teeth. Like I’ve said to you before maybe its the design not the material.
Like I have said before, I am just testing an idea for using negative molds instead of positive print outs. I am using the gear that comes with the project.
If you would like to send me a “correct” model for the gear, I would be happy to use that. I am not an engineer, nor do I claim to be. But man this method is getting lots of criticism for the wrong reasons.
It is not the parts themselves that I care about but the method that I am more interested in.
Well don’t claim parts are weak or try new methods without understanding how and why parts fail. Or you will end up with heavier bigger parts. The psi you say you want means stainless steel or injection moulded specialist plastics.
Again, it is a proof of concept. If it proves useless, I spent $5.77 on a tube of putty and a few hours of my life. If it proves to work, people will be able to use the method for whatever they like.
People have posted several times they had a gear fail or melt. I have had a hard time getting my parts to print smoothly on the teeth.
Enough trolling, unless you plan to provide any insight other than, “figure out why it failed”, please ignore my posts from now on.
Its not trolling is common sense if a part fail work out why, then apply a solution. In the 80 either Schumacher or Mardave had plastic failure. It turned out the plastic required boiling to solve the problem. Simple cheap and effective. Parts melt meaning too much heat. So would lubricating the part solve the problem. Or is the mesh of parts to tight. That’s how you solve a problem. But you said your printer doesn’t print right so solve that first as gears require tight tolerances.
Ken, I am sorry you have been getting criticism about wanting to try something different than printing the gears. Seems to me that the project is called OpenRC, not 3d Printed RC. Also, it would be a sad world if no one tried something new, just to test it out. For example, I wonder where this project would be if Daniel had not tried 3d printing an RC car. A lot of the RC community is critical of 3d printed parts for RC cars. I hope you keep trying new things and keep posting your results.
