For a large 1M Delta, is it better to keep all of the electronics on the bottom, keeping the motor wires short and extending the effector wiring or keep just the board on top and extending the motor wires ?
Power supply, SSR, and motors would remain at the bottom but my concern was moving the printer controller to the top which would keep the extruder wires shorter but require much longer motor wires, e.g. 1.2M
i have been building 1M delta for a wile now… and in every revision, basic layout stayed ~same. everything under the bed, side psu.
but now I’ve been thinking to move most on top… reasons:
higher mounted LCD (printer this size is going to live on the floor),
shorter wires for endstops and extruder,
cleaner look for extruder… one bundle instead of 2.
lower center of moving mass,
minus: additional 2 plates to cover top (mine is kossel based, with plywood bed/board mount plate).
@Marko_Novak I’m in the same boat, been building a 1000 x 400 mm delta for quite a bit. Things get slow (and expensive…) when you strive for perfection 
I’ll also be putting the controller and motors to the top - all the cabling except to the SSR and heatbed thermistor will be nice and short.
Plus, having motors at the top will allow me to put the belt idler pulleys further up and stiffen up the bottom a bit more. I’m using the 25K aluminium brackets.
OT: what are you using for diagonal rods? I’m still unsure - either magnetic or these TrickLaser ball and cup ones.
@Petr_Sedlacek likely to be magball arms.
@Petr_Sedlacek yes, i was thinking same direction…
current setup:
6mm rodends (356mm long carbon arrow),
with g2s metal effector (e3d clone, with beta mount from g2s community),
upper rodend mounts are metal g2s on my costume plates on 4 metal rollers
0.9 2.4A motors on gt2560 a49xx drivers,
12v supply + ssr
current status…
dodgy one axis motor (possibly damaged from burned driver in previous setup…)
calibration done to only +/-0.3
no probe
no lights
~1 month old malin 1.1x bugfix FW
now, do i just switch dodgy motor, or rebuild entire thing on different board?
options:
mks robin + tmc2130 + diodes( tried drv8xxx but had issues “ringing”),
smint x6 smootie clone,
gt2560 + tmc2130 w/o diodes
12 or 24 supply
some of the previous builds were posted on g2s community, but no recent updates 
no experience with smoothie yet…
but so far it seems very similar to mks closed option.
ball rods (without magets, but on rubber bands) were tried, but rods were to short and would pop out on bed edges…
at the moment ball effector system sits, with most probably getting on g2s(currently on gt2560+drv drivers, 24V, ABS effector and PLA rod mounts)…
Most of wiring length doesn’t matter as long as you do reasonable EMR control — don’t run unshielded endstops next to untwisted motor wires, etc — but there’s one big exception. Anything talking over SPI (mainly LCDs and SD readers) needs minimum cable length. So put your controller board at the same end of the printer as your LCD/SD and all the other electronics are a simple matter of wiring with suitable lengths / gauges / noise control.
Yes. So, in principle everything except the controller would be mounted at the bottom. I was just thinking about the effect of extending the motor wires to reach the top. Having the electronics under the bed means that they (and the stepper drivers) will be toasty - which is not great - in my case a beagle bone black.
@Jonathan_Cohen You can put the motors at either end, whatever’s easier really. Most people do bottom-motors for weight distribution reasons but they can go at the top of the columns if you want.
@Ryan_Carlyle Good point. I’m going to put the control board and the motors to the top for the sake of convenience - this way only 24 V, SSR control and bed thermistor wires will run from the top to bottom. I know “the man himself” (Johann Rocholl) has done it this way so it must work fairly well
@Marko_Novak Thanks for mentioning the MKS Robin, didn’t know about that one. Looks like a good candidate. I already have a set of (Chinese) TMC2130 drivers which I’ll try to use. I’m already spending way too much on various parts of my delta so I think I’m going to cheap out on the controller for now and possibly get the Duet later
EDIT: Closed source, most probably ripping off open source. That’s a no go.
@Petr_Sedlacek hold your horses…
mks robin has closed FW. it can’t be easily upgraded to smoothiewere as mks sbase.
take a look on their github, dl FW and look in config file. if you are satisfied with options…
last time i checked, pid max limit was added, but still no jerk, limit individual rod/radius offsets…
so, i can’t recommend it for build not done to very high tolerances.
i have ver2.0 (almost a year now), as far as i know there was .2 and .3 revisions after… making wifi integrated… but fw updates seems to follow hw revisions and not also in between…
but if you can “hack” marlin on it, it would make it serious board candidate for the masses
basic pinout is posted on reprap forum… if you take the porting route
edit: yea, phone typing took a while