For anyone that’s like TL:DR; - there’s a gap between right-hand side wall (right side looking at it on the print bed, left side in the picture) and the infill I’m trying to fix…
I have my Bukobot v2 Duo that I got late last year, and have it printing pretty well. That is, until I tried to make a battery holder of my own design. For the first time, it was having trouble sticking to the build platform (kapton tape on glass, standard recommended setup for Bukobots). Finally switched to ABS slurry method, seems to work well. But now when trying to print a test piece (first picture), it consistently has a gap between the right most wall and the infill. I’ve tried different things, changed print heights (originally tried .3mm, then down to .15mm). Also tried switching slicers, trying out Cura, it has that gap even using Cura. You can actually push on the wall and it feels springly as the gap goes from about the 3-4 layer all the way to the top.
Note: the other pictures are previous pictures of my printer setup, in case there are questions of filament routing… the one with that big orange wire spool is the setup I’m currently using. It doesn’t “seem” to have much drag on the fillament…
I found a page on the reprap wiki at: http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
It suggested problems with too much resistance on filament or problems with the axis, like slack in the line or something… This is on the X direction and the syncromesh is still very tight. I don’t notice any play when I try to move it by hand…
I’m trying a new filament route to see if it helps with resistance, but like I said I don’t think that is the issue as it doesn’t seem like much resistance…
Also the holes are more ovals, measured with digital calipers and the x direction is a little larger. But I’ve concluded the mis-shapen circles are a product of slight warp caused by the infill, as the hole with very little surrounding infill is perfect. So I think I’ll end up having to print this with PLA (and first get some PLA), but still the issue with that gap remains.
Any thoughts?
Make sure the distance between the two walls is twice, or more, than your extruded line width. A value of 3 or more will ensure some fill is provided. Then you can experiment with different fill algorithms to see which works best - although I tend to stick with rectilinear when I can.
Thanks @Neil_Darlow ! Is that a solution to make sure the holes are not lopsided?
The main thing I’m trying to fix is the gap between the infill and the left hand side of the object. But I’ll add some space between the walls as well to see if that has an effect.
Is the error in the gcode when you view the layer in Repetier Host? This sounds like some of the bug reports I’ve seen posted recently.
@Jonathan_Foote How do you mean “lopsided”? Slicing should not produce a non-round hole and the missing infill is a consequence of the spacing between the holes being too small to permit an extruded line width of material to fit.
@Whosa_whatsis I looked at that as that was my first instinct since it happened so consistently… But I did not see the gap. The trouble is that the gcode preview thing is just the lines for the path of the extruder, and the gap is so small, it would be hard to spot. Here is the thing (should be public) if you are able to look:https://tinkercad.com/things/gOSf181vHsA
@Neil_Darlow I mean that x diameter is 13.94mm, y is 14.38mm (on one of the holes, each hole is a little different, one of them is actually perfectly round). On the original object the diameter on all the holes is 14.5mm. I haven’t had a chance to mess with it yet to try adding distance between the outer walls or between each hole.
Did you check the set screws on your synchromesh pulleys? If they’re off the flats of the shafts, the pulleys can slip, which has effects similar to a loose belt.
@Whosa_whatsis I loosened/tightened the screws on the pulleys. They seemed OK to me but still re-tightened everything just to be on safe side.
I also changed up the object to give a large distance between the holes and between the outer walls. It’s printing now and is already to the point it “would have” started gaping… So far no gap! I’m liking the problem with the model theory best since it was so consistent about it. Of course the real test would be to print the old version of the model and see if it messes up, but don’t feel like wasting the plastic just to see which one was the fix LOL…
Thanks for the help everyone! Awesome community.
