For those of you who print in nylon: I’m looking to upgrade my hot-end so I can expand into high temp materials beyond PLA & ABS. Any suggestions or models to avoid?
Go for the E3D hot end. You won’t be disappointed.
ABS is about the highest temperature material we use if you don’t count polycarbonate in. I have had personally best results on nylon with j-head. E3D is a winner for ABS though but is struggling with lower TG materials. Im working on a fix on E3D about this, should be ready to publish in a week or two 
Lower TG materials? What do you mean?
Nylon trimmer wire extrudes nicely through my E3D. It needs to be very well dried (the nylon).
Tried Nylon trimmer wire that I got from ACE that looked a lot like Taulman 645, and holy shit that stuff loved to curl.
@Matej_Rozman I’ve seen a few posts about the E3D jamming on PLA - I take it that’s what you are hopefully addressing? I see that J-heads are well reviewed but the wiki says they are supposed to be run well under the target temp for Talman 618 (for example) because of the PEEK.
J-Heads can be run at 242C safely, as long as you have selected the proper temp table for your thermistor, and have PID tuned your hot end. I’ve run about 3 lbs of Nylon through my J-head without problem.
@Chris_Horton PLA jamming on the E3D was a machining issue, which has since been fixed.
Just to be clear, Im not saying its jamming, Im only saying it has issues printing with PLA-like materials. I reckon this is only problem with bowden setups and I do belive its inavoidable in its current design. I have both designs, V4.1, V5, tried it all, spent well over 100 GBP at E3D shop trying to sort this out, so belive me I know what Im talking about.
This problem can howewer be avoided and can almost dissapear with air blowing trough (as much oriented as it can) heat barrel (the inox part), but it will never totaly dissapear.
I will soon be releasing all info about this, but new/revised/modified parts are at the machinist shop at the moment. It can be made DIY, but I really wanted to make sure the machining part is dead spot on so I can reject any machining isuesses if it doesent work as it should.
Disclaimer
I can only say this for 1,75mm bowden setup becaose this is what I use and cannot claim this for other setups.
@John_Ridley heated Garolite FR4; was previously simply printing on birch ply unheated. It would pull up a little wood grain but was easy to remove with a quick hit on the belt sander.
Our Ubis hotend does nylon and polycarbonate easily. Printrbot.com the ceramic model is a bit more responsive on heatup… Only difference from the Cartridge model.
Thanks Brook, that’s what I have now (on my original LC). It’s been a star performer and I’ve never had a jam with ABS or PLA. However, I was concerned about the PEEK and didn’t see a temperature ceiling on the site. What is the peak temp rating?