Google doesn’t quite translate this properly, but they are definitely taking on E3D head-on. Hooray for competition!
Originally shared by jakolete jakolete
Os presentamos el nuevo HOTEND LeoNozzle AllMetal, diseñado por @Juan_Tendero en colaboracion con nosotros, Sacamos cincon unidades en Fase PreBeta .
Caracteristicas: Base Triangular, alcanza la temperatura de fusion 3 veces mas rapido.
Nuestras pruebas funcionas hasta una hora sin ventilador, es capaz de retomar su funcionalidad con una pequeña brisa, por lo que aconsejamos un ventilador de 30x30.
Tiene Boquillas intercambiables, en esta fase el punto es de 0.5mm.
Se puede poner acoplador para BOWDEN
El material con el que están fabricados es de altisima calidad y gran tecnología.
Ahora mismo tenemos dos de estos cinco por si alguien los quiere probar en fase BetaTester, si alguien esta interesado puede enviarme un mail.
One thing I really wish for in these designs is the ability to use a thread-through style thermister rather than a shove-in-and-tape style. I’ve had more trouble with those stupid things shifting on me…
Ehhhhhhhhh, they’re using brass dome-head nozzles. I also see no heat-break. In my honest opinion, these won’t be a match for the E3D in quality. They look like (at best) a first iteration.
@Nathan_Ryan Nope. I’m going to guess it’s either really easy, so you suggest I do it myself, or really hard and that explains why that’s not the common design.
Unfortunately, I can’t really guess which one is the right answer…
Aw, I was hoping you had an answer on difficulty. I’ve heard of other people doing it on their E3D hot ends, and with the right setup it shouldn’t be too difficult, but unfortunately I don’t have what I’d call the right setup to try.
I do have two spare E3Ds at the moment, though, so maybe I’ll risk one of their heater blocks to see if it’ll work.
Yeah, that’s who I had seen talking about it. I would also consider him much much more experienced with machining things, though, so I didn’t take his being able to do it as a guarentee that I could manage the same.
I don’t know of one myself, although it sounds like the sort of thing that could be useful… I took Nathan’s mention of tapping to be referring to making and tapping an additional hole for a set screw to hold the new thermistor in place. That was my interpretation of it, at least.
Honeywell 135-104LAG-J01 is indeed the one we use. Thermistor table #7 in Marlin. The advantage is that it can’t slip out without being disconnected (which causes temperature to read zero and triggers a failsafe).
Those “screw-in” thermistors that were mentioned are just normal epcos radial-lead thermistors with the head fire-cemented into a 4mm M3-male/female-threaded brass PCB standoff. It’s probably a better solution than taping the glass bead down, but it’s an awful lot of thermal isolation between the barrel and heating element for my taste. Probably reads several degrees low at at extrusion temperature (depending on insulation) and introduces a lot of delay into the feedback loop.
