I was hoping I could get away with it. But I’m just going to can it and start over… Maybe do some smaller parts for now.
@Michael_Scholtz
Did you try some adhesive for this print?
The one before it was a 12 hour print that was similar and printed fine. This is the 1st print on this printer that I stopped due to quality. I stopped it in the end because it has to be perfect. It’s a 1:http://18.scale model of a 2 story building for an architecture students final project.
+Peter van der Walt
I had my share of frustration with Laser :D. Burning marks on wood, wood not completely cut, getting the laser to read my dxf. I guess nothing is perfect. I do like the speed and the precision though.
+Peter van der Walt
Thx, and joined.
@Michael_Scholtz I had terrible warp issues with ABS; tried everything - adhesive (no good), ABS slurry (solution of ABS in acetone) (no good), 3M Blue Tape (OK, but not perfect) and finally tried a PEI bed. So far (about 10 prints later) it’s been perfect! It’s not cheap, and you need to make sure you get a good (3M) brand, but it seems to solve warping very well. You may need to boost your bed temp by 5C or so, but it’s a huge relief to be able to print large ABS prints without warp… I got mine here:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aleph-Objects-Inc-LulzBot-TAZ-Sheet/dp/B018G59B82
I don’t have a TAZ (I have an FF Pro), but this size sheet is big enough to make 2x to fit my bed.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aleph-Objects-Inc-LulzBot-TAZ-Sheet/dp/B018G59B82
Is this PEI on Glass on heatedbed? I noticed when I set bed temp to 70°C my brosili thingy glass on top was about 49°C. So I’m now at 85°C set temp to get 65 on topof the plate.
@Stefan_S yes, on glass. I haven’t measured the temp directly, but I set the bed at 110C for ABS and that seems to do the trick. I also pre-heat it manually, leaving it for 10 minutes or so before starting the print to ensure the glass is fully heated through.
Good adhesion is imperative, but many ABS prints simply must be in an enclosure. A simple cardboard box and a 100W incandescent bulb as a heater can do wonders. Fire hazard, obviously, so be careful.
I use PEI as well and it works well, although ABS is always a pain. One thing I found was PEI adhesion was proportional to bed temp so you can crank it up.
Can you print it in PETG?
That’s a pla print… Usually warping is not an issue at all. I’ve searched for pei but have yet to find a local stockist. I use a 45’ bed and hair spray. And part didn’t want to come off the bed while it was still warm.
Are you using grid infill? Try something which has less tension like a honeycomb.
@Jon_Gritton Interesting. So I could buy that PEI sheet and stick it to a glass sheet for my Kossel Mini, trimming around the circle with a craft knife after it’s stuck? What’s the surface finish like when compared to glass? As shiny? Or slightly matt?
Same as glass as long as you don’t get bubbles.
@Mark_Wheadon yep, smooth as glass, but as @Daniel_Bull said, watch out for bubbles. It’s pretty stiff and the glue on the back is fierce stuff. There are some guides online somewhere about the best ways to fit it. You might want to get hold of some isopropyl alcohol at the same time as you should use that to clean the surface…
@Jon_Gritton Right, thanks for the warning. (Already have isopropyl as I use it to clean glass before printing PLA straight on to glass when I want a really shiny surface (I use diluted PVA the rest of the time)).
If it is just a model, use the minimum fill density - 10% or so. Switching the infill pattern may also help.
In the end I turned the model 90’ on its side and printed it. One of the benefits of a sufficiently large print bed.