If the prints that came on the card won’t work, then that’s a good sign it’s a calibration issue or other mechanical problem rather than a software setting such as layer height or temperature.
How do the V2 calibration lines come out? What live Z-adjust are you using? The V2 lines should be visibly flattened (not round) but not “squished” or too flat. When I’ve rebuilt the bed (e.g. after changing the PEI), I tend to start with the lines round and barely connecting to the bed, then increase the z-adjust gradually until they flatten. You may have to run the V2 calibration several times to do this.
-450 on the live Z adjust
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It’s really hard to tell from that photo but it looks to me like it’s nowhere near “squished” enough - the filament that I can see appears to still be round and the lack of adhesion for some of the end sections is a giveaway. Keep increasing that z-adjust; if you do it carefully you should be able to tell when the nozzle is getting too close (filament will practically stop extruding) so you can back off again.
Out of interest, is that a positive or negative adjustment? Are you going in the right direction?
@Jon_Gritton thanx man. And im at -450 right now.
Wait so lower temperature for better adhesion? Ok ill try that too. And @Ryan_Carlyle yeah salt water was suggested in a different post to increase adhesion. 1 oz of water + half a table spoon of salt the apply with a paper towel and let it dry
Huh. Never heard of salt water. Can’t think of any reason why that would work. Seen people use sugar water though.
Same reason. Water dries. The crystals stay behind and leave more surface area