Happy happy…thanks @Eclsnowman for the hint to run at 95% flow
Nice. I was so happy when I got mine to work on Eustathios first try. I tried on my old corexy bunches of times… but it was always a big fused mess.
??? Sorry…not sure what this really is except a drill spinning a few pieces of foam??? Sorry
That’s a big milestone!
@T_Thorsen_TBillz this is the single-print planetary gear assembly, its a demo of how accurate a print can be.
To be honest, that first layer had to be broken apart, but it started spinning pretty easily after that.
First layer is usually a bit thick to ensure bed adhesion, that’s perfectly fine, as you get the bed more leveled you can reduce the over extrusion somewhat.
Thx Jim…OMG…DUH…IM a IT sys. Eng. and I can’t believe I didn’t see that. Too funny…im going to bed now that I feel like an idiot. Thx again. 
Jim Wilson What’s the 3D printer brand-Model and what’s the options on materials it can use?
@T_Thorsen_TBillz mines a Prusa i2, it prints PLA and ABS, Nylon when its feeling nasty. Not sure what the OP uses.
This was printed on an ingentis variant (http://ingentistst.blogspot.com/?m=1) using ABS… It’s got an e3d v6 and will print anything that needs a bed temp less than 100c and about 300c on the extruder.
Nice…Im getting ready to setup the Prusa i3 but I think it looks cheaper than the I2. Either way my company bought it so I not bitchn about it not looking good. Cant wait to build my 1/4 scale RC chassis and suspension parts!
The i2 has a lot of issues addressed by the i3, primarily its difficulty to get square and lack of z height.
But I’m going Eustathios variant now to get something around 50x50x50cm build volume 
Thx for the info. My company has the i2 also but I was just assigned to the new project using the i3. Im meeting with them on Monday to go over the details of the new printer. Thx again
I’ve been playing with the flow rate recently as well and kind of stumbled on it when I was trying to figure out how to best print Prusa parts that would be as accurate as possible. The reduced flow rate has helped in the accuracy.
Usually if reduced flow helps, then the stepping on your extruder is off. Its best to fix E steps in firmware rather than by editing flow all the time, to reduce chasing variables. This is what i used to get mine dialed in: http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide#E_steps
Or maybe just multiply your current E steps by .95 and use that as the new value? I think that’s how that math works… Its late, lol
@Jim_Wilson , I agree and it seemed wonky to have to reduce the flow, but when I’d measure the E rate it would be spot on (measured over 75-100mm for instance).
Once I got to within 5% I gave up on logic and started tuning to the resulting part measurements instead, I surrendered to the plastic gods.
That’s emmetts gear bearing (Gear Bearing by emmett - Thingiverse) if I’m not mistaken, I’ve printed a few, the smallest being 30mm diameter to 150mm, the model is built with openSCAD and customisable on the thingiverse site, it has a variable for tolerance which is set at 0.15mm by default. I found it helpful to increase this to about 0.45mm. #thingiverse