Has anyone attempted to print the F1 wheels with Ninjaflex on a FlashForge Creator Pro or other Makerbot clones? My attempts have failed…
with other filament you have normal parts?
try with a littl e (propably 5°) less or more heat on both, hotend and bed. And definitely no fan and printed object. On flex filaments you also have to print very very slow (tends to bend under pressure between extruder and hotend)
Thanks @Klaus_Daume , I’ll have to check slicer to make sure fans are off. I am printing really slow…it seems that the layers…the infill is not bonding. If you look at the perimeters, they bond, it’s the infill that seems to be problem. Do you have an FFCP? Profiles you can share? Thanks again.
@5d77d6ffa0df2cea1ae3 yes, it prints great with ABS and PLA.
As i haven’t been there while printing i can’t tell reliably. But i suspect from warping and underextrusion to be the reason for the missing infill. Beside you may also try to print without infill at all but 3 or 4 Perimeters. My tires are completely hollow as well and they work nicely.
Keep in mind that slic3r has problems with inward faced overhangs if there is no infill. Try Cura or Craftware. They do some kind of zig/zag movement to support top fills.
@Klaus_Daume How did you print the walls on the top? Assuming you are printing tire flat on it’s side. How did you achieve the “top” wall without supports?
Top surfaces like on the tires are printed as bridges. With a top/bottom thickness of .8mm or more Cura closes them nicely.
@Klaus_Daume nice to know. I haven’t played with bridging a whole lot…i usually rely on supports or infill to take care of that. Thanks for the tip.
I printed with 250 degree tip and 40 degree bed. 15mm/sec on a CraftBot with a clean, level bed. Worked beautifully. However, when I try to go faster I get what I call a filament hernia - where it buckles between the drive wheel and the filament guide tube.
I also did 4% infill in a square pattern, which worked great. Either 3 or 4 layers on the tread. Very squishy.
@Matt_Roche thanks for sharing your settings. Do you know which is the best type of extruder/drive type for Ninjaflex?
I have direct drive. My understanding is that Bowden type are problematic
You must print so slow/fast, with so much heat and cooling, that you won`t get ANY resistance from your hotend. Bether try the options without connected extruder before when pushing the filament by hand. As soon the filament suffers from the slightest resistance it may curl inside your bowden tube or hotend.
start with 15mm/s and 240c hot end. I did 4% infill.
Thanks to @Matt_Roche & @Klaus_Daume , right now the second FFCP is down since it looks like NinjaFlex took it’s toll on the extruder hot end…need to play with that and get it printing again and I’ll report back. Thanks again.